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Page 38 Ron Blaauw

O SENHOR DO TEMPO

Crônica de Roberto Telles de Souza.
Damista e sociólogo.

Figura obrigatória nas competições, o relógio de damas cria dificuldades adicionais para os jogadores, porém sua utilização é imprescindível. No passado, um jogador chegava a demorar horas, ou um dia todo, segundo alguns registros, para fazer até mesmo um único lance, ora por preciosismo, ora pela complexidade de uma posição, ou até mesmo como tática antiética para desestabilizar o adversário.

Criou-se, por isso, necessidade de se coibir esses abusos.

O relógio com dois mostradores veio para solucionar o problema. Cada jogador, com o controle específico no relógio, dispõe de um tempo convencionado para jogar a partida. Quando um jogador, ao finalizar sua jogada no tabuleiro, aciona o seu mecanismo de tempo, imediatamente o andamento de seu tempo é interrompido e o tempo passa a correr apenas para o oponente.

Mas, como já é de domínio público, toda solução gera novos problemas.

A propósito, jogar damas também é uma forma de solucionar problemas que antes, do início da partida, não existiam. Essa é a dialética das estratégias humanas. Com o relógio não foi diferente.
A pressão exercida pelo tempo exige nervos de aço dos competidores. Não é fácil, por exemplo, encontrar uma sequência de dez, vinte lances, em menos de trinta segundos, ou menos. Alguém mais crítico poderia dizer: “Oras, o tempo é igual para os dois damistas, não havendo assim nenhuma injustiça”. Quanto a isso, é importante lembrar que o tempo psicológico decisivamente não corresponde ao tempo físico. Alguém já disse que o tempo é relativo. Em tempo, o tempo (sem trocadilhos) é tão relativo que para damistas de alto rendimento não vale a máxima: “Time is money”.

Alguns relógios, porém, principalmente os analógicos, apresentam defeitos que podem eventualmente prejudicar ou favorecer um dos competidores, quando esse problema não é percebido. No caso do problema ser notado, em competições mais formais, chama-se o árbitro e alguma medida saneadora será aplicada, com a devida correção do tempo. Existem até normas oficiais que regulamentam essas situações, ainda que todas as normas parecem ter sido inventadas para ser burladas. O gosto pelo desafio de alterar o status quo – situação atualmente estabelecida – exerce um estranho domínio sobre alguns, especialmente os revolucionários e, por outro lado, os oportunistas de plantão, estes sempre motivados pela Lei de Gérson, cuja concepção – explicação para os mais novos – é de que, na vida, a ideia é levar vantagem em tudo.

Já é tempo de retornarmos à crônica. Por muitos anos, um damista paulista recorreu a uma criativa atitude desonesta. Seu estilo, numa linguagem damística, era o tático. Especialista em golpes e ciladas de abertura, vencia com facilidade os menos experientes, mas era talentoso em Output Exhale Awesome 1.1 Crack For Mac & Serial Number [100% Working] 2021 complicações táticas para os experts. Transferiu, dos tabuleiros, esse seu estilo até mesmo para vida, quando as circunstâncias lhe fossem favoráveis, ou, quando estas eram adversas, sempre buscou espertamente alguma forma de desestabilização como estratégia de alterar tudo que estivesse aparentemente definido.

Inconformado com a rigidez do controle de tempo, esse criativo e inescrupuloso damista resolveu, a exemplo do titã mitológico grego, Khronos, apoderar-se do domínio do tempo. Essa foi mais uma de suas manobras táticas. Há alguns anos, inexplicavelmente confessou a um jogador, ao final de um torneio, que sempre levava em sua mochila dois relógios analógicos nas competições. Cada um deles programado técnica e especificamente para obter suas vantagens extra-tabuleiro – não sei se a expressão é a mais adequada. Com o auxílio de um hábil relojoeiro, alterou o funcionamento desses relógios para que, em um dos mecanismos, o tempo fosse mais acelerado e, no outro, um atraso calculado para a devida compensação, de tal forma que a soma dos tempos acompanhasse o tempo das demais partidas. Esse golpe seria imperceptível até mesmo aos grandes mestres. Usava um dos relógios quando jogava de brancas e outro, com Output Exhale Awesome 1.1 Crack For Mac & Serial Number [100% Working] 2021 negras. Eram poucos os minutos adicionados por hora de jogo, mas inegavelmente conferiam significativa “gersiana” vantagem a esse que justifica o título desta crônica: “O Senhor do Tempo”.

Não tivesse o nosso anti-herói confessado o ilícito, essa notável Output Exhale Awesome 1.1 Crack For Mac & Serial Number [100% Working] 2021 antiética não teria gerado este texto. Admirável feito da maquiavélica engenhosidade humana.
Khronos e kairos eram as duas palavras utilizadas pelos gregos para designar o tempo. Khronos refere-se ao tempo cronológico, ou sequencial, que pode ser medido e kairos refere-se a um momento indeterminado no tempo, em que algo especial acontece. É bom lembrar, ainda que pese meu quase ateísmo, que em Teologia, “kairos” é “o tempo de Deus”. Talvez o nosso imaginativo Senhor do Tempo desconhecesse o kairos, pois certamente pensaria numa forma de controlá-lo. Para um tático, existe um certo otimismo, porque nenhuma situação é definitivamente definida, sem redundância.

Hoje, a bem do jogo de damas, o Senhor do Tempo já não disputa torneios oficiais. Em sua prática nos tabuleiros desta vida, conseguiu subverter até uma famosa frase do escritor argentino Julio Cortázar, que escreveu: “Nenhum homem do mundo usa relógio. São os relógios que usam os homens do mundo”. O Senhor do Tempo, desvirtuando a proposição filosófica, usou o tempo de seus, na maioria das vezes nada semelhantes, adversários.

Источник: https://tablita.com.br/Blog/o-senhor-do-tempo/

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Electra2 Cracked allows you to Advanced XLS Converter Keygen the musical possibilities of multi-synthesis oscillators, analog modeled filters, chaotic fractals, samples, psychoacoustic processing, flexible modulation and an immense sonic range. Combine multiple polyphonic or monophonic synthesizers and 13 different synthesis methods to create incredible results. Output Exhale Awesome 1.1 Crack For Mac & Serial Number [100% Working] 2021 this comes with an easy-to-use interface, high-end sound quality and low CPU usage for an instrument as feature-rich as ElectraX. The preset management provides instant access to a large library of sounds by professional designers. ElectraX on our machine and tested it locally here just to make sure, and it’s definitely virus and backdoor free, and it really is the full version unlocked for you.In terms of features and quality, both are very similar, and both cost around $200 to buy.

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Glyndebourne announces full closure – and launch of virtual festival

A statement from Glyndebourne:

With a very heavy heart, we have taken the decision to cancel all remaining Festival 2020 performances. It was our hope to open on 14 July, but the persistence of the COVID-19 global pandemic has made it impossible for us to guarantee the safety of Company members and audiences. We have launched the Glyndebourne Emergency COVID-19 Appeal to help our artists and seasonal staff – two thirds of our workforce – who face a devastating loss of income from this closure, and to help ensure Glyndebourne’s continuity so we can be here for everyone in the future.

We are determined that Glyndebourne will share music this summer, however, and so we are delighted to announce that our first ever virtual festival, Glyndebourne Open House, will open on Sunday 24 May. We will be bringing the Glyndebourne Festival experience direct to people’s homes by streaming a full-length opera, for free, on Glyndebourne’s YouTube channel at 5pm every Sunday, and helping the public to recreate an afternoon at the Festival in their own homes.

Glyndebourne Open House will commence with Michael Grandage’s much-loved production of The Marriage of Figaro. The second two weeks will also see us team up with Classic FM, the UK’s most popular classical music station, which will stream Nicholas Hytner’s Così fan tutte and our acclaimed Don Giovanni, directed by Jonathan Kent, from their Facebook page alongside our YouTube broadcasts. In keeping with the Festival experience, our caterers Restaurant Associates will be holding a live ‘Glyndebourne Open House picnic’ cookery demo on Saturday 23 May and although there is no dress code, we encourage viewers to step away from their day-to-day lockdown lives, dig into their wardrobes and dust off their best outfit.

Whether in gardens, on balconies, front steps or in living rooms, we are looking forward to seeing pictures of people recreating the Glyndebourne Festival for themselves at home.

Stephen Langridge, Glyndebourne’s Artistic Director, says: ‘We remain determined to share world-class opera with the public this summer; so, while the pandemic has forced us to abandon our beautiful theatre for now, I am delighted to be able to announce Glyndebourne Open House, beaming great music and theatre direct to people’s homes. For Glyndebourne itself, however, the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic will be devastating. As a privately funded charity that receives no public subsidy for the Festival, we are reliant on Box Office income. For our artists and seasonal staff, this means the loss of their livelihoods. Your donations will help us to support them and ensure Glyndebourne’s future for everyone.’

Robin Ticciati, Glyndebourne’s Music Director, says: ‘While it is heart-breaking not being able to perform live for our audiences this summer, I have such hope for what we will all feel as a community when we emerge from this troubled time. The need for live music and opera will surely burn ever brighter.’ 

Full details about this appeal and ticket refunds can be found on glyndebourne.com

Who gets to make music?

What enables musicians to turn talent into successful careers? Camilla Seale explores the role of class and the luxury of time

We tend not to think about how musical talent turns into a career, we just enjoy the result. When I started asking London-based musicians about freelancing, I was fascinated that it was interpreted so differently. For some it equalled complete freedom but for others, constant anxiety and insecurity.

As politicians steadily withdraw money from music programmes, and UK conservatoires’ intake of students from low participation neighbourhoods hovers around five per cent, it seems time to return to a very useful word for talking about privilege: class.

‘I don’t know what everyone else thinks but I find it mentally quite tiring’, says cross-genre instrumentalist, Johnny. ‘Find what tiring?’ I ask. ‘Just being a musician. Especially in that kind of game of auditioning, not getting it, auditioning, realizing that everyone’s getting it because they look right or they’re friends with the person booking it’. Like climbing a mountain without the right gear, I think.

‘Does that answer your question?’, he prompts me. Does it? I was talking to top-tier musicians. Why was it such a struggle for some while others could feel things clicking along smoothly like a silent electric car. I dug deeper. The start of the story usually began with some anecdote about an early experience with music – going to a concert, singing in a school choir, the simple enjoyment of sound.

And then later another question would creep into view: was all this time practising a risk or an investment? Would they, at some point, have to pack it in and face that they needed another set of skills to sell to the job market? Listening to jazz pianist Alex’s route, I was struck by his unblinking confidence in his career choice. It couldn’t have been more different to Johnny’s.

Alex’s relationship to music was a story of moving from one step smoothly to the next: the family friend that guided him through the towering figures of jazz; the piano teacher who nudged him towards inspiring teachers at a junior Saturday conservatoire; his mum who managed to get him moved to a school with a great music offering.

Was all this time practising a risk or an investment?

It wasn’t just about his drive, or the hours he spent at home nailing down an Oscar Peterson solo, but about the people around him who could show him new music, new methods; pathways he hadn’t known existed; and who knew how to make his musical potential go as far as possible. ‘You just can’t go wrong surrounded by these amazing people. It really is worth its weight in gold’.

As all the musicians I spoke to pointed out, success in freelancing rests as much on skill as it does on good contacts. One cellist went as far as to say he’d never book someone for a gig he hadn’t seen play before, no matter how good they were. No surprise really – making music is an organic process.

And so from Alex’s inspiring experiences of sharing music, it’s perhaps not surprising that his story after conservatoire continued as the brave kid that buys the touring jazz group a beer when they come to town. Time spent making connections which bridged his move to London, the UK’s cultural capital, brimming with the best of the best.

I thought back to Johnny, whose journey seemed to be anything but a smooth ride. After years of mediocre teaching and bad advice on his musical development, he comes out of a music qualification in London with no real network and no idea how to stay in the city.

Why would you spend money on music lessons when what we do with our Saturday is go see the football? It took his parents a while to give in: ‘I really had to go for it, with the ‘please can I have some drums?’ and I did just destroy everything in the meantime, like bins, and pans; that’s always good you know, just use your mum’s kitchenware, she gets really, very quickly annoyed by that…’.

It wasn’t just about a set of family values that didn’t include hours of music practice. It was that Johnny wasn’t born with the invisible inheritance of parents knowledgeable about creative professions, about music education, inspiring mentors and teachers at the top of their game, not to mention the more obvious benefit of parental cash to fork out for years of music lessons and courses.

Never book a musician you don’t know? Without a trusted network of musician friends in London, Johnny relied on skill to get in the door, subbing in for regular musicians, always balancing which gig to say yes to, to maintain connections, and more than a few times having to choose the regular function gigs which could pay this month’s bills over the musically exciting ones that could take him up the career ladder long-term.

He was playing catch-up for teenage years which hadn’t brought him to the level he needed to succeed: ‘In that sense time is running out – because it might not be much longer that I can pay the rent while still having enough time to practice. How much longer can I… it’s getting more and more expensive to live so…’ he trails off. He was being squeezed tighter and tighter, less able to ride the crest of the wave.

When you encounter a fellow musician at a rehearsal, or playing a concert, you may get some clues about what took them to where they are: their education, their passion, their accent. It wasn’t until I looked more closely into these personal histories that it became clear that a smooth journey relied, above all, on time.

And some were in better positions to harness it than others. Because they knew how, or knew the teachers who knew how, and almost always because they had the money. If a well-functioning freelance career required good stocks of musical ability and social contacts to close the circle, to generate enough money to go around again, time was what decided how efficiently that could happen. No wonder that Johnny and Alex’ teenage careers held such sway over how they spent each passing day.

Next month, Camilla will explore how time enables the development of different resources (social, musical, financial) and will talk about conflicts for the musicians and consequences for music making in the UK.

School leaders say EBacc is harming creative subjects

A majority of secondary school leaders believe the EBacc has had a negative effect on school curriculums, and two-thirds believe provision in arts and creative subjects has suffered in their school as a result of changes to the curriculum and performance measures.

These are the findings of the latest annual survey by school leadership organisation The Key, presenting the views of 1,182 school leaders and 1,257 governors of mainstream schools in England.

58% of secondary respondents said the EBacc had a negative impact on their curriculum, with only 9% saying it had a positive impact. By contrast, statistics were more balanced on the impact of Progress 8 and Attainment 8, with 37% reporting a negative impact and 31% reporting a positive one.

Four out of five secondary school leaders said that the EBacc measure was actively limiting opportunities for pupils with vocational or technical aptitude who may not thrive in a purely academic environment.

More widely, more than three-quarters (77%) of school leaders reported that they do not have confidence in the current national assessment system.

The Conservatives’ manifesto, launched last week, reaffirms the party’s commitment to the EBacc, stating that 75% of pupils should be entered for the EBacc combination of subjects by the end of the next parliament (summer 2022), and 90% by 2025.

In response, the Bacc for the Future campaign said: ‘The Conservative Party must urgently drop its plans to press ahead with an unreformed EBacc. The Department for Education’s own figures – backed up by a wealth of research – have shown that by excluding creative, artistic and technical subjects from schools league tables, the latest EBacc policy (which was announced in 2015) is directly harming the uptake of these subjects and the opportunities of pupils in secondary schools.

‘With the creative industries one of our fastest growing sectors, and likely to play an even more important role in a post-Brexit world, we urge the Government to listen to the 2016 consultation – the response to which has not been published yet – and drop plans for a backward looking EBacc.’

The Key’s survey follows similar findings from a joint Association of Teachers and Lecturers and National Union of Teachers survey and research by academics at the University of Sussex, both of which were released earlier this year.

Yamaha becomes ENO’s Official Piano Partner

Yamaha has been appointed as the Official Piano Partner of English National Opera in London, making Yamaha the exclusive supplier of pianos to ENO.

The partnership sees ENO become the first opera company to use Yamaha’s revolutionary TransAcoustic™ piano, now located in the orchestra pit at the London Coliseum. A fleet of grand and upright pianos have also been installed at the company’s rehearsal studios in West Hampstead and in the bar spaces at the Coliseum.

Martin Fitzpatrick, ENO’s head of music, said: ‘At ENO we give our pianos a thorough workout. Creating the orchestral colours on a piano requires an instrument of artistry and reliability, delicacy and toughness, depth and precision. I am delighted that, through this new partnership, Yamaha have provided ENO with pianos that fully meet the demands we place upon them.’

Each Yamaha piano installed at ENO was selected by the company through rigorous testing and evaluation to ensure they have the tonal flexibility and durability required for their specific use – whether for the pit, a rehearsal room or the Coliseum bar.

Charles Bozon, director of Yamaha Music UK’s classic division, commented: ‘Yamaha pianos are to be found in many of the world’s finest venues and studios; this is the first time Yamaha has had the opportunity to partner a major opera company. We look forward to inspiring and introducing many more people to music-making through our work with ENO.’

The full fleet of nine pianos supplied to ENO by Yamaha:
Grand Pianos – C3X (x2) and C2X (x2)
Upright Pianos – YUS5 TransAcoustic, YUS5, YUS1 and U1 (x2)

English National Opera
Yamaha Music UK

Among friends

Jeremy Nicholas looks forward to the launch of the London Piano Festival, an intensive and impactful weekend of music-making that promises great playing and imaginative programming, with a helping hand from your favourite magazine!

Since London is one of the world’s foremost musical centres, it’s hardly surprising that the city receives a great deal of attention in this magazine. Astonishingly, though, there has never been a dedicated piano festival in a central London concert venue – until now. The first London Piano Festival will be held at Kings Place from 7 to 9 October 2016, with International Piano as its official media partner.

Of course, it’s not the first piano festival ever to be held in the British capital. In 1998 and 1999, pianist Stephen Coombs was the founder and artistic director of the superb Pianoworks festival at the Blackheath Halls; since 2013 there has been the annual It’s All About Piano! at the Institut Français. Yet no one has ever used the title ‘London Piano Festival’.

Pianists and duo partners Charles Owen and Katya Apekisheva (both of whom appeared at the inaugural It’s All About Piano!) spotted a gap in the market and have been working tirelessly over the last three years to bring their project to fruition. I spoke to both of them about the trials, tribulations and raison d’être for such a festival – together with two veterans of the festival circuit who are appearing over the weekend: Kathryn Stott and jazz pianist Julian Joseph.

Photo by Nikolaj Lund

When you can hear great pianists almost any night of the week somewhere in London, what exactly is the purpose of a piano festival? I put the same question to Owen and Apekisheva. Who are you hoping to inspire, to attract? ‘It’s all about love for the piano,’ says Apekisheva simply. ‘And exploring the repertoire for solo piano, piano duo, jazz piano and all the things the piano can offer – proving,’ she adds with a mischievous laugh, ‘that we don’t need other instruments to create a festival! The piano is the only instrument that can do this.’

Owen expands: ‘We are trying to bring piano lovers together for one intensive weekend of music-making. There are some people already who have booked for the entire weekend. Listeners really will get from that the chance to hear different artists playing in the same hall, to immerse themselves, get to know repertoire, meet the artists, socialise in the foyer – and Kings Place lends itself to that. There’s a great restaurant and that whole area has been rejuvenated. It’s buzzing!’

The second element of the festival, explains Owen, is friendship. ‘Pianists are appearing together who are not in a competition. It’s about the different generations playing together. The concert at the centre of the whole thing is in three parts with exclusively 20th-century music for two pianists when we team up in different combinations.’ Friendship has indeed proved vital in setting up the first of what they hope will be an annual event. Everyone appearing is either a friend or mentor of Owen and Apekisheva, a two-piano team since the late 1990s. ‘We wanted to make the first year all about people we know,’ enthuses Owen. ‘It was important we had people we could just pick up the telephone or email – so that’s how we are able to get Alfred Brendel. I know him a bit, and Katya’s worked with him. Then there’s Stephen Kovacevich: I’m one of the many people who go and play to him before a recital – so obviously I asked him. There’s this pool of people we know through the Guildhall – Martin Roscoe, Ronan O’Hara and Noriko Ogawa. Ashley Wass I’ve met and admire hugely.’

Owen has known Kathryn Stott since he was a boy at the Menuhin School. ‘She is now at the height of her powers and I was really keen to get a solo London recital from her.’ Stott played in the Blackheath concerts. ‘They were terrific, but it seemed a long way out,’ she recalls. ‘Kings Place is in central London. I think I know everybody involved in this weekend and, you know, we’re all up for it. We want it to be a success. We want to get people in for the first one and for them to ask what we’re going to do in the next one.’

Photo by Andreas Neumann

The final concert is from Julian Joseph, the jazz pianist, with whom Owen has been friends for many years. ‘We both admire each other’s work,’ says Owen, ‘and I thought it would be great to end the festival with some jazz.’ I asked Joseph if it is unusual for a jazz pianist to be invited to what is primarily a classical piano festival? ‘Well, it’s certainly not unusual for me throughout most of my career,’ he replies. ‘The culture of festivals is changing – there are more popular music acts involved in jazz festivals.  Over the past two or three years the jazz part has become much more significant.’

Of course, friendship can only go so far in producing a festival. Many such ventures have collapsed from lack of a consistent artistic vision or sufficient financial backing. ‘Getting the artists together was, frankly, the easy bit,’ says Owen. The idea had been germinating since 2001 when the duo was invited to play at the New Ross Piano Festival [in south-east Ireland] organised by pianist Finghin Collins. ‘We wanted to do the same sort of thing in the UK. Initially, we didn’t think specifically of London. We were thinking churches and stately homes but then we thought we really wanted pianists performing together as the centre of the whole thing and that’s when we thought of Kings Place. The architect of Kings Place, [Sir] Jeremy Dixon, is a good friend of mine and we hang out a lot. So is Imogen Cooper who was one of my teachers. She is one of our festival patrons, by the way, together with Stephen Hough and Jeremy.’

‘It’s a great help that there are two of us putting on this festival,’ admits Katya. ‘We can divide the work, consult each other and we both understand about the other’s schedule. If one of us is particularly busy, the other one can step in. Neither of our partners are musicians and they have been helping us on the more practical things. For example, my husband is a barrister and he’s been helping with the accounts, so the four of us are a team. That has been very important. We are all learning new skills. It’s challenging!’

Kathryn Stott is also overflowing with optimism. ‘Looking at the programme, it is so varied and anyone who wants a feast (though I hate the term!) of piano activity – well there’s something for everybody. I bet you there will be people who will be at everything. I know from experience that audiences like to follow through these things. The nice thing about it being at the weekend is that there are more people who can do that. They won’t have a chance to get bored – they’re going to have very little time off!’

The inaugural London Piano Festival runs at Kings Place from 7 to 9 October 2016. www.londonpianofestival.com

National Theatre Connections Festival 2016 a success

As the 21st annual nationwide youth theatre festival National Theatre Connections concludes, in the face of a worrisome climate for the arts, several contributing playwrights have asserted the importance of youth theatre and encouraged young people aged 13–19 to continue writing and acting. The festival, which has seen 250 youth theatres and schools get involved this year, offers young people the opportunity and resources to stage a play from the annual National Theatre Connections anthology.

The purpose behind the festival is to engage the younger community in the dramatic arts while instigating a desire to begin a career in the industry. Youth groups are invited to perform commissioned plays in professional theatres across the company, with some going on to perform in the NT itself at the end of the festival.

James Graham, who wrote Bassett for the anthology, agreed to participate in the festival for the opportunity to ‘take larger risks – young actors are so brave and fearless.’ He asserted that the festival was monumental in encouraging young people to ‘break down the psychological barrier that stops people writing – the “oh, I’m not from the kind of background, not the kind of person who could or should be writing plays” complex.’

Patrick Marber, who famously wrote Hollywood blockbuster Closer, contributed to the festival with his play The Musicians because he ‘believed in the purpose of the festival and of young people in general.’ While one of the focuses of the festival is that of acting and inspiring writers, young people can enjoy opportunities backstage as well as in the spotlight.

Though the 2016 festival is now over and applications for 2017 having just closed, award-winning writer Bryony Lavery, whose play It Snows was performed in the NT’s Dorfman Theatre on 1 July by Hollyfield School’s drama group Ilex Theatre, believes there ‘could be more initiatives’ like this ‘brilliant scheme, thought up by Suzy Graham-Adriani.’

‘We have been thrilled and inspired by the Connections performances we have seen at festivals right across the country,’ said Alice King-Farlow, NT’s director of learning, while actor John Boyega of Star Wars fame described his participation in the festival as his ‘breakthrough’.

connections.nationaltheatre.org.uk

Personal Touch Page 16 The Star Page 34 Reuters, Edy Irianto, Reuters

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Page 47 MCI, Worldometers, Southeast Asia Globe Additional text by David Bowden Heritage and History Shared across States Despite being on opposite ends of the Peninsula, George Town of Penang and the city of Melaka share the same history of being important trading posts back in the days of Old Malaya, seeing centuries and generations of cultures putting down roots to this day. A s two of Malaysia’s top WHAT’S THE IMPORTANCE OF places deemed too fragile for destinations, both UNESCO? development. They are also often domestically and UNESCO recognition can be an entire eligible to receive funding for internationally, the capital city’s saving grace. By having an area preservation and conservation. Not towns of northern Penang (George designated as a UNESCO World only that, these sites are also protected Town) and southern state Melaka (both Heritage Site, the land is deemed under the Geneva Convention as the city and state have the same significant to history, representative of places safeguarded from warfare. name) represent more than just culture(s), or in some cases, an Malaysia’s illustrious culture. Both are outstanding example of unique World Heritage Sites range from also UNESCO-inscribed locations, biodiversity that needs to be preserved. transboundary (across two or more united under one banner for the national borders), to cultural (the built complementary history deemed UNESCO-declared sites often reap the world), natural (national parks and essential in understanding the entirety benefits of becoming fascinating natural features), and mixed sites of Southeast Asia’s development tourism spots for history and culture (natural and cultural). To date, there are throughout the ages. lovers, increasing economic value to over 1,000 sites around the world and 22 • The Expat expatgo.com

the process to get listed is lengthy, detailed, and normally takes years of preparation by experts writing reports and management plans. Strict controls are put in place once a site is accepted, and they can be delisted if the management plan isn’t adhered to. GEORGE TOWN, PENANG A former spice island, George Town was coveted back in the day for its strategic location and prime proximity to spice trading in the North. Chinese traders saw opportunity in the new land, settling and establishing their own slice of economic heaven with the locals and Thai (Siam) neighbours in the 18th century. Its growth into a major entrepôt attracted the British East India Company, and Captain Francis Light founded George Town as a port and a base to manage trade through the area. As such, George Town is full of Chinese and Colonial British influences, and contains Asia’s best assemblage of pre-war buildings. Scores of old houses, shop lots, clan houses like the famous Baba Nyonya’s Khoo Kongsi, museums, and streets featuring the harmonious times of many cultures existing together – as evidenced by mosques, temples, and churches only a stone’s throw away from each other – have been acknowledged to be an exceptional collective example of trading towns of the era. Today, creative refurbishments have been steadily underway in efforts to combine these protected buildings and increased revenue sources, transforming these locations into The Expat expatgo.com • 23

une s co i n m a lays i a lifestyle cafés, boutique hotels, art residences, and Chinese Nationalist heritage zone, murals have been galleries, and retail shops. Armenian Leader Sun Yat Sen’s former place of commissioned by Penang state Street, located within the UNESCO residence. authorities to communicate historic heritage district, is one such popular information, and specialised mixed location, and also carries its own New life has been brought back to media art, such as the popular significance being the historical these streets too via the street art interactive installations by Lithuanian- footprint of Armenian traders, Malay urbanscape initiative. Throughout the born artist Ernest Zacharevic have encouraged tourists to seek out and photograph creative poses. George Town is also known to be the site of Asia’s biggest literary festival, the annual George Town Literary Festival (GTLF), uniting the world to witness and celebrate the growth of literary creatives in Asia. MELAKA TOWN, MELAKA Established in the 12th century, Melaka went from the earliest Malayan empire of a refugee sultan to the entire Southeast Asian region’s most vital trading points. In efforts to regain influence over the land, Sultan Iskandar Shah, known also as Parameswara, collaborated with Proto-Malay sea people to attract traders to the newly identified port. Ming China soon sought to transform Melaka into a strategic commercial hub and their point of voyage into the 24 • The Expat expatgo.com

Indian ocean, further solidifying trade Singapore and Penang as crown Heritage Site in 2008 under the listing routes between China and India, the colonies. of Historic Sites of the Straits of Middle East, Africa, and Europe. Malacca. The naming is partly due to Today, Melaka is one of Malaysia’s top the larger impact Melaka had on the This prominent influence of Chinese tourist destinations for this rich collective history of Southeast Asian merchants, Indian traders, Portuguese heritage, as the historical landscape of trade, but George Town could not be mariners, Dutch entrepreneurs, and both cultural and maritime authorities overlooked in the trade history it too British colonists have left a lasting created a townscape unlike any other had between the East and West in mark on Melaka’s existence throughout across the country. Chinese heritage 500 years of existence. the era. homes line streets adjacent to colourful Dutch churches and Moorish Both these areas are exceptional Melaka, spending a century under mosques, the most popular of areas examples of multiculturalism – the Portuguese rule, was subject to being Jonker Street. centuries of trading and mingling of occasional warfare as Dutch forces Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures, as sought to expand control in the region, Street life thrives in Melaka, as well as European colonial powers, have thus resulting in many forts lining the residents have taken up led to unique architectural and urban coast. The Dutch won with the help of microbusinesses and entrepreneurship influences that have endured to this the Johor Sultanate, but chose to focus as means to gain revenue from the day. The descendants of the their exploits further south in Java, and high traffic of tourism. remarkable people of this era continue ceded Melaka to the British in the to showcase exceptional talent in areas Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824. Before HISTORIC SITES OF THE STRAITS OF of technology and art, such as Malay departing however, they erected a MALACCA entertainment icon P. Ramlee, landmark, which is now one of Melaka’s Both being important and significant renowned fashion designer Jimmy most iconic buildings, the Stadthuys. trading points of Malaya, George Town Choo, inventor of the surgical mask Dr While under British colonialism, Melaka and Melaka jointly received Wu Lien-teh, and athletes Goh Liu Ying joined the Straits Settlements with identification as an UNESCO World and Jeremy Gan, to name a few. The Expat expatgo.com • 25

une s co i n m a lays i a by Priscilla Emmanuel Exploring the Pinnacles of Nature at Gunung Mulu National Park Hornbill H ome to five different National Park is a natural treasure that BORNEO’S CAVES OF MYSTICAL UNESCO Heritage Sites, has existed for over 40 million years. WONDERS Malaysia is fortunate to be Since its gradual discovery, Mulu has Even older than the caves are the able to celebrate and attracted the best minds of the sandstone and limestone formations preserve these cultural and natural scientific world to study and explore that were formed in the deep blue seas locations, hopefully for many more its seemingly endless passages of surrounding Borneo. These formations generations to come. Looking at tropical karst caves. In 1974, the eventually rose into the towering cultural heritage sites, George Town Sarawak government wanted to landscapes of Mulu, with its most and Melaka are lauded and recognised endow special recognition on the prominent pinnacles being Mulu, Api, as culturally significant heritage cities priceless varieties of flora, fauna, and Benarat, and Buddha. sharing a UNESCO inscription. As for ancient cave wonders present in Mulu natural heritage wonders, we have the and had it gazetted into a National Boasting some of the largest cave ‘Archaeological Haven’ that is the Park. Four years later, the Royal systems in the world, Mulu is an Lenggong Valley, ‘A Natural Ecosystem’ Geographical Society launched adventure trekker’s paradise. The three being Kinabalu Park, and the ‘Pinnacles probably one of the biggest multi- mountains that dominate the park are of Nature’ situated in the Gunung Mulu disciplinary expeditions ever to Mulu, Mount Mulu (2,376 m), Mount Api National Park. and finally, in 2000, a (1,750 m), and Mount Benarat (1,858 55,000-hectare tract of Mulu m). Mount Mulu is primarily made of A place that holds great geological National Park was officially declared a sandstone, and its summit holds lush importance but is less travelled, Mulu UNESCO World Heritage Site. moss forests teeming with rich biodiversity. The famous limestone pinnacles are found on the upper parts of Mount Api and are separated from Mount Benarat by the Melinau Gorge. Mount Buddha, however, is separated from Mount Benarat by the Medalem Gorge, and is actually part of a different national park named Gunung Buda. The park also holds three gargantuan caves: Sarawak Chamber, one of the world’s largest underground cave chambers; Deer Cave, holding the largest cave passage in the world; and Clearwater Cave, the longest cave system in Southeast Asia. The immense Sarawak Chamber is 600 m long, 415 m wide, and at least 80 m high. Meanwhile, Deer Cave is 120 to 150 m in diameter, and though Clearwater Cave Clearwater Cave has nearly 230 km of 26 • The Expat expatgo.com

Mulu Pinnacles explored passages, much remains to indigenous Kayan tribe from the Since gazetting the park in 1974, the be discovered. Other interconnected Melinau River to Melinau Gorge. The Sarawak government has limited caves in the area are Gua Nasib Bagus, trail starts with a boat ride to Kuala access to the entire area by not Benarat Cavern, and Cave of the Berar followed by a three-hour trek to constructing roads in order to preserve Winds. Base Camp 5. From there, climbers the park’s ecological integrity and its must then follow a 11.2-km trail that resources. About 90% of the park and TREKKING IN MULU NATIONAL leads to Kuala Terikan, a hike that can 95% of the caves are pretty much PARK take up to five hours. Once arrived, closed to visitors, with the exception of Trekking expeditions in Mulu are an there is an option to either stay a research expeditions. Only four of the experience that many people from ranger station called Nanga Metawai show caves are open to the public, across the world come to enjoy. The (15 minutes from Kuala Terikan) or at namely Clearwater Cave, Wind Cave, park has three main climbing treks: The the Rumah Bala Lesong longhouse Deer Cave, and Lang’s Cave. All visitors Pinnacles Summit Trek, The that’s a further three-hour ride along require respective permits and a park Headhunter’s Trail, and the Gunung the river by longboat. guide throughout the duration of their Mulu Summit Trek. The Pinnacles stay. There are several more caving Summit Trek is a three-day, two-night The Gunung Mulu Summit trek, options for less-experienced hikers expedition culminating in breathtaking located 24 km from park and other activities that can be views of the Gunung Mulu Pinnacles. headquarters, is the only hike that enjoyed at park include rock climbing, This journey begins with a two-hour reaches the top of Mount Mulu. kayaking, and mountain biking. boat ride from the Melinau River to Starting from headquarters, climbers Kuala Berar. Base Camp 5 for this trek need to embark on a 12-km trek is a 7.8-km walk from Kuala Berar. through primary forests at an TRAVEL TIPS Trekkers then have a further 1.2-km elevation of 1,200 m before reaching As for accommodation, visitors hike from Base Camp 5, with the trek Camp 3. The moss forest is found at have the 188-room Royal Mulu rising 1,200 m, passing dipterocarp Camp 3, and further on, it takes Resort that includes an air- forests into the moss forest at the several more hours to arrive at Camp conditioned longhouse, a guest summit. Gaining access to the summit 4. Once climbers have made it to house, four cabins, and a hostel requires ropes and ladders for the last Camp 4, they will need to tackle a few that are all located near the park hurdle, so clearly this isn’t for vertical climbs which require knotted entrance. With no road access, the inexperienced climbers. ropes, ultimately leading to the park can be reached by air from summit. On the descent, Camp 1 is Miri, Limbang, and Bandar Seri The Headhunter’s Trail, meanwhile, is located along the return hike from the Begawan via Mulu Airport, or by taken when entering and leaving Mulu summit of Mount Mulu. The distance boat from Marudi via the Tutoh and National Park. It’s a trail as old as time from Camp 1 to park headquarters is Baram Rivers. that follows the route taken by the roughly a three-hour hike. The Expat expatgo.com • 27

ex pat excu rs i on s : langkawi By David Bowden Langkawi: As Good as It Gets L angkawi is arguably Malaysia’s For a brief time recently, Langkawi was premier holiday island about as good as it got in Malaysia as destination, with facilities far as travel was concerned. Indeed, ranging from a recently until interstate travel resumed a few renovated international airport to short weeks after the Langkawi travel duty-free shopping and several smart bubble began, this favoured island in resorts. Its successful formula has Malaysia – with its offer of beaches, several other variables in the equation luxe resorts, duty-free shopping, like its easy access by flights from eco-travel pursuits, golf, and even Kuala Lumpur and elsewhere, some history and culture – was just expansive forests, impressive about as good as any overseas holiday geological formations, and a leisurely could be, especially for travel-starved pace of life. Malaysian residents! much development amongst the And indeed, when it comes to golf forests that blanket the 99 islands pursuits, Langkawi is possibly Malaysia’s making up the archipelago. The most complete golfing destination, as number ‘99’ has special status on there are three golf courses on which Langkawi as there are not only 99 to play – two 18-hole courses and one islands in the group but the demanding nine-hole course. In geographical location is 99° east of the addition to golfing, visitors can enjoy a prime meridian. Perhaps it comes as variety of watersports, take a sunset no surprise to golfers that the 99 East cruise around some of the 99 islands, Golf Club can also be very much a or head off on a naturalist-led jungle course of two nines for those who play trek through the forests now protected more than one round here. as a Geopark. 99 East Golf Club (the former Langkawi For many KL residents, Langkawi is Island Golf Club) is centrally located also the closest beach to the capital, as along Jalan Padang Matsirat in it’s just an hour’s flight from Kuala Kampung Mat Ayer just 10 km Lumpur. It is feasible to leave the city southeast of the airport. The current early on Friday afternoon and be nine-hole course (destined to be 18 enjoying nine holes on the links or a holes when completed) is part of a cold drink on the beach before the sun large golf and residential estate that is sets in Langkawi. slowly evolving here. ARCHIPELAGO OF 99 ISLANDS Designed by Australian golf architect The aerial view from planes Ross Wilson, the 7,330 m-long course approaching Langkawi International is challenging, but fair for recreational Fishing boats on river Airport indicates that there’s not too golfers. While based upon a Scottish 28 • The Expat expatgo.com

Aerial view of The Datai Langkawi and Datai Bay links course design with wild grasses Asia when it reopened in 2014 after Els golfers will encounter rolling greens, and reeds lining the fairways, it also renovated the original course that panoramic tees, and several scenic features local design elements originally opened in 1992. Five of the fairways, magnificently contoured with including rice terraces set against most picturesque holes face the water, sand traps and water hazards. Those fairways lined with tropical rainforest. and with no bunkers, the layout is who play it regard Gunung Raya Golf determined by fairway alignments Resort an exhilarating golf course and This is a very scenic course with distant between the forest, emergent trees, a ‘must play’ for island visitors. views of Kuah township and Gunung and a meandering forest stream. Machinchang. Course facilities include LANGKAWI’S NATURAL BEAUTY a pro shop, small clubhouse and the Tee off times range from 7:30am to While the three courses are located highly regarded Fat Frog Restaurant 4:30pm, and buggies, equipment, and some distance apart, there is never a with a well-stocked wine cellar with shoes are available for rent. There is a sense of distance on the island, and all seating that overlooks the course’s first fully grassed driving range, practice the driving can be done at a leisurely hole. putt and chipping greens plus a pace; there’s no need to hurry. With clubhouse with a café and lockers. most of the archipelago’s islands ONE ‘EL’ OF A COURSE blanketed in forests, nature-based Undoubtedly, Langkawi’s premier golf MOUNTAIN COURSE tourism sets Langkawi apart from course is the superb Els Club Teluk Located at the base of the majestic many other regional islands. Datai, located at Teluk Datai and set Gunung Raya, Langkawi’s highest peak, amid rainforest that extends all the Gunung Raya Golf Resort is the other There are two mountains to admire or way down to the Andaman Sea. The 18-hole course on the island. It sprawls explore – the higher Gunung Raya and course, designed by four-time majors over 121 hectares of a former rubber the more accessible Gunung winner Ernie Els (the ‘Big Easy’), is rated plantation that once covered much of Machinchang. A steep cable car ride to by many who taken up the challenge the island’s eastern lowlands. This the summit of Machinchang enables as one of the best courses they have challenging course was designed by visitors to admire Langkawi from a played. The par 72, 6,172-m course was internationally acclaimed golf architect grand altitude and even see Thailand’s recognised as the best golf course in Max Wexler. Within its lush setting, Tarutao Marine Park on the horizon. The Expat expatgo.com • 29

ex pat excu rs i on s : langkawi 1st hole, 99 East Langkawi The forests are home to animals such mangrove tours, fishing, adventurous cruise passes half a dozen islands with as squirrels, lemurs, monkeys, journeys through the rainforest little or no development on them. macaques, and a wealth of birdlife canopy, and a variety of watersports, After a while, the crew lower a boom including various species of hornbills. including sailing and kayaking. net into the water, trailing the boat, for Monitor lizards amble through the guests to enjoy the vigorous saltwater undergrowth and rare Rainbow Lizards ISLAND HOPPING massage best described as a natural dart from hole to hole along several Most visitors only venture to the main jacuzzi. beaches. Langkawi also boasts island, but hidden charms can be hundreds of species of butterflies. found on some of the smaller islands ADVENTURES IN NATURE which surround the main one. Island Langkawi is also rich in natural Activities to consider include jungle hopping is something that’s most splendour and there has been an trekking, mountain climbing, caving, popular for those who want to admire increasing development in adventure- the sights on some of the satellite islands. Pulau Dayang Bunting is the second- largest island in the group and the one most visited after the main island. A ‘suspended’ freshwater lake is the big attraction and is a fascinating geological phenomenon for those with an interest in rocks. There’s a wide choice of other islands to visit, and many of them have sandy coves for picnics and swimming in near- complete isolation. One of the best ways to discover these islands is to join a sunset cruise with operators such as Crystal Yachts with their all-inclusive offering that includes sightseeing, snacks, meal, and an open bar. Cruises depart point is from the Resorts World Resort located on the 99 East and view of Kuah Pool at Sunset Valley Holiday Houses island’s southern extremities. The 30 • The Expat expatgo.com

Telaga Harbour based recreational activities on the island. Langkawi’s natural assets are quite impressive: Southeast Asia’s oldest rock formations (protected under the UNESCO Geopark), just 70,000 inhabitants, extensive untouched forests, vast wetlands, some unique wildlife, and picture- postcard scenery worthy as a backdrop for the Hollywood movie Anna and the King. The islands are definitely not Phuket nor Bali, but rather an island group that is mostly untouched and with inhabitants who appear to want to keep it that way. One of the most exciting journeys to make on the island is a mangrove tour. Umgawa Zipline Eco Adventures What were once considered wastelands are now recognised as valuable sentinels, essential for the mangroves add another valuable The Datai, The Danna, Casa del Mar, protecting the coastline from the economic asset to an ecosystem once and Pelangi provide strong destructive forces of tsunamis, for considered by many to have no value competition. example, and as a spawning ground for at all. many species of fish and crustaceans. Numerous boutique and homestay- Protecting these wetlands ensures Even for those with just a passing style accommodation is provided at they remain as a sustainable resource interest in things ecological, the properties such as Sunset Valley for current and future generations. Langkawi wetlands are very scenic, Holiday Houses and Bon Ton Resort. Responsible tourism activities within especially the steep limestone walls Both provide traditional wooden Malay that rise up from the mangrove-lined houses decorated with regional coastline in the island’s north. They are antiques and textiles. The former has home to various species of mangroves, beautifully updated self-catering and rare cycads cling to the barren houses on offer, while the latter boasts limestone surfaces seemingly defying one of the island’s most acclaimed the laws of natural development in restaurants. growing in narrow crevices with limited soil. Langkawi makes the perfect weekend getaway for those looking for some COOL ACCOMMODATION rest and recreation. It in the current There are many accommodation climate, it is also one of the few island options on Langkawi ranging from the options available to Malaysian golfers; ultra-luxurious to value-for-money hopefully not for much longer, budget chalets. Dining or drinking in though! either resort restaurants or dining/bar outlets along the popular Pantai Cenang to Pantai Tengah strip is CONTACTS another great joy. 99 East Golf Club (99east.com), Els Club Teluk Datai International accommodation brands (elsclubmalaysia.com), and such as The Westin, St Regis, Ritz- Gunung Raya Golf Resort Carlton, Four Seasons, and Aloft are on (golfgr.com.my). offer, while more local concepts like The Expat expatgo.com • 31

ex pat excu rs i on s : ind onesia A Force of Nature Few countries in the world can boast the natural diversity and cultural richness of Indonesia. But this comes at a price, as the nation has been tested by the follies of man and the wrath of nature alike, with the latter exacting a greater toll on Indonesia than perhaps any other nation. The Expat’s editorial team looks at the periodically catastrophic consequences that Malaysia’s neighbour suffers for its location on the Ring of Fire. Indonesia’s volcanic activity also yields some of the region’s most fertile soils 32 • The Expat expatgo.com

Java is home to numerous active volcanoes F or lovers of statistics, there is THE POWER OF NATURE much to marvel at in Indonesia Indonesia’s geography has been but, sadly, much to sympathise shaped by this tenuous plate with, too. This archipelago placement, and many mountains and consists of over 13,000 islands, 34 hundreds of volcanoes can credit the provinces, and some 270 million fault lines for their birth. Indeed, more people comprising hundreds of distinct than 120 of Indonesia’s 400 volcanoes ethnic groups, making it the world’s are still active, and some are legendary. fourth-most populous country, but Few eruptions have been more one whose people live with the devastating than the mighty ever-present threat of earthquakes, explosions of Tambora in 1815 and volcanoes, tsunamis, forest fires, Krakatoa in 1883, two of the most floods, and landslides. It is not just powerful eruptions in recorded history. human life that suffers the impact of Tambora’s calamitous eruption on the these natural disasters, either, with island of Sumbawa (just east of hundreds of millions of dollars in Lombok) began on April 5, 1815 and economic damage unleashed every reached its explosive climax five days year on a country already seeing well later, ultimately causing a death toll of over 30 million of its inhabitants living at least 71,000 and going into the below the poverty line. record books as the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history. While man may have had plenty of say in Indonesia’s fortunes over time, It’s truly difficult to grasp the enormity Mother Nature’s capricious whims have of Tambora’s eruption: Some 100 been just as impactful, and Indonesia cubic kilometres of rock were blasted suffers mightily and regularly for its into the air by the successive geographical positioning. Between the explosions, including roughly 41 cubic Northern tip of Sumatra and the Lesser kilometres of volcanic rock ejected Islands, the Indo-Australia and Eurasia from within the earth. An enormous tectonic plates meet, with the former collapsed caldera – a staggering 6 km forced beneath the latter, creating a in diameter and 1.1 km deep – was network of fault lines that serve up formed as a result of the eruption, and natural disasters as and when they so Mount Tambora’s elevation was desire. reduced dramatically from its once- The Expat expatgo.com • 33

ex pat excu rs i on s : ind onesia For Sumatrans living in the shadow of Mt Sinabung, eruptions are a part of normal life soaring 4,300 m. The explosions blew well over a metre of ash. The colossal failed worldwide and famine was off the top third of the mountain, eruption column was so vast, in fact, widespread. reducing its height to just 2,851 m. much of Southeast Asia was plunged (Today, it’s further dropped to 2,722 m.) into darkness for a week. As the ash Almost 70 years later, on a small island The massive eruption was 61,500 times column rose into the atmosphere and between Sumatra and the western tip more powerful than the Hiroshima spread around the world, global of Java, Krakatoa rumbled to life. For a atomic bomb blast and released 158 temperatures were significantly period of two days in late August 1883, cubic kilometres of volcanic ash, lowered, and the following year was this volcano erupted with a series of enough to bury the whole of known in the Northern Hemisphere as cataclysmic explosions that obliterated Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore in the Year Without a Summer. Crops two-thirds of Krakatoa island and the The December 2004 tsunami obliterated Yogyakarta’s May 2006 earthquake killed thousands and left the city in ruins much of Banda Aceh, Sumatra 34 • The Expat expatgo.com

surrounding archipelago, destroyed over 160 nearby towns and villages, caused incredible tsunamis up to 40 m Mt Merapi sends lava down its slopes in March 2021 eruption high, and killed at least 36,000 people. The explosive blast – said to be the loudest in human history – was heard as far away as Turkey. The pressure wave from the final explosion circled the globe three and a half times and ruptured the eardrums of sailors who were 65 km from the volcano at the time. With some 20 million tons of sulphur propelled high into Earth’s atmosphere by the eruption, around 70% of the planet experienced atmospheric colour displays and vivid sunsets and sunrises for years following the eruption. Unleashing the full might of the Earth’s formidable power, Krakatoa remains perhaps the most violent and destructive volcanic The cataclysmic 1815 eruption of Mt Tambora was the largest in recorded history and left a 6-km caldera behind event in recorded history. The disasters that have been rolling hundreds of thousands of lives was In Sumatra, tempestuous Mt Sinabung over Indonesia in more recent times are triggered by a massive undersea – which has been in an active state not quite as explosive as the 1883 earthquake off the north coast of since 2010 – erupted spectacularly in Krakatoa eruption, but they have been Indonesia’s Sumatra island, while the early May 2021, sending an immense nonetheless horrendous for the many May 2006 earthquake in Yogyakarta ash column more than 3,000 m into people affected. The December 2004 was responsible for some 5,700 the sky. tsunami that ravaged much of the deaths. Yogyakarta is also in the shadow region’s coastlines and claimed of Mount Merapi, which is Indonesia’s STAYING STRONG most active volcano, with over 80 And these are only the large eruptions since 1000 CE. Its most earthquakes and notable volcanoes – recent activity was in early August 2021, there is no shortage of seismic activity when the volcano’s lava dome collapsed in the country and, on nearly any given and blasts sent a series of pyroclastic day, Indonesians wonder when the flows down the mountain’s slopes. next quake will jostle the foundations of their land or a nearby volcano will Mount Kelud in East Java is another awaken from its slumber, as if to active volcano, with its most recent remind them that their lives are never major eruption occurring in February completely secure. 2014. Bali’s revered Mt Agung entered a period of eruptive instability in late Despite being pushed and pulled by 2017 that continued into 2018, and nature in ways both benign and the neighbouring island of Lombok devastating, the cultural heart of suffered a series of powerful Indonesia beats strongly, and there are earthquakes in July and August 2018 few nations in the world that can boast that collectively left over 560 dead, such diversity and variety – both in its with most of the casualties in the natural wonders and in its human shallow main quake on August 5, the population – as this sprawling strongest in Lombok’s recorded history. collection of islands. The Expat expatgo.com • 35

ex pat excu rs i on s : ind onesia Text and Photos by David Bowden One Very Big Island, One Very Old City S umatra, the sixth-largest island in the world, had intrigued me for some time, but the opportunity had never quite arisen to visit. During that wondrous period about a year or so before the coronavirus pandemic put an end to travel, however, the temptation of promotional airfares finally gave me that little push I needed to visit, and after a 90-minute flight to Palembang, I stepped into the international airport that had just recently been spruced up for the Asian Games. Palembang is located near the southern tip of Sumatra in neighbouring Indonesia, and, with a Open air market population of some 1.7 million, it is a large, busy, and bustling city. It is also Indonesia’s oldest city and was once As such, Malaysia has a shared history bridge is always congested, and small, the capital of Srivijaya, a Malay with the region, as it was from canoe-like boats called bidar (or ketek) Kingdom that dominated regional Palembang that the original settlers of arriving and departing the riverbank trade and maritime shipping routes Melaka originated. Palembang was provide a certain element of along the Straits of Malacca. established some 1,300 years ago and excitement. Viewing the brightly lit the then Buddhist kingdom of Srivijaya bridge in the evening is the best way to was one of the most powerful in the appreciate a span the locals consider region. Palembang’s name is derived to resemble the Golden Gate Bridge in from two words in the local language San Francisco. The best place to enjoy – pa for ‘location’ and limbang which this view is over a meal of delectable means ‘to sieve,’ so it was a place to local seafood served at the Riverside sieve for precious metals, most likely Restaurant located some 150 m from gold. the southern pylon of the bridge. It’s a favourite with the locals and visitors, as CITY SIGHTS it is one of the best-located While the city has a handful of restaurants in the city. It serves halal interesting attractions, they are not on dim sum for breakfast and lunch, while Pasar Besar a grand scale. (Don’t tell the locals I seafood is bountiful and cheap in the said that, though.) Beyond the evening. congested traffic and the tropical heat, the city has several historic attractions, The Pasar Besar is located at the base several lively markets, a few fresh of the bridge on the southern banks of seafood restaurants, and very friendly the Musi River. Hawkers selling cheap locals. local fruits such as salak, durian, duku, bananas, pineapples, avocados, and Palembang’s major tourist attractions papaya take shelter under multi- include the Musi River and its all- coloured umbrellas in the surrounding important Ampera Bridge crossing streets. Avocado shakes with a drizzle (plus the then-new adjoining bridge of chocolate sauce are a local specialty that was built to accommodate the and a refreshingly cool drink in the Grand Mosque Palembang Light Rail Transit). The road heat of the day. 36 • The Expat expatgo.com

Travel File Loading boat at Musi River Getting There There are direct flights from Kuala Close by are the Grand Mosque (the Lumpur to Palembang on AirAsia original buildings date back to 1738, (airasia.com) with the flight taking but there have been several additions just over 90 minutes. Currently, since then) and the Kuto Besak Fort. because of international travel The Dutch expressed an interest in restrictions, these flights are Palembang and Kuto Besak Fort was unavailable, but will presumably completed in 1797 to defend the city, resume once borders reopen. which it did successfully. Visiting the Flights arrive into the modern fort and the two adjoining museums is facility of Sultan Mahmud the best way to appreciate the region’s Badaruddin. A pre-paid taxi history. Many visitors hire a bidar to coupon system operates to the access Kemaro Island 5 km city. downstream of Ampera Bridge. A sacred Buddhist temple here gets a bit Getting About Songket crowded during festivals, such as Chap The Palembang LRT was Goh Me. completed and opened in time for for both songket and batik at the Asian Games in late 2018, FESTIVALS AND SHOPPING reasonable prices, but also with the increasing in reach to include 13 Palembang becomes livelier than occasional expensive piece, as well. stations, including the airport and normal during the Sriwijaya Festival in Woodcarvings, shells, pewter, precious Jakabaring Sport City. mid- to late June and the Musi Festival stones, and ceramics are also sold in on August 17 (Independence Day). Not the market with the best collection Where to Stay surprisingly, the Musi River is the focus being available in the Pasar Besar on The finest accommodation in the for both with bidar races along the the southern riverbank of the Musi city is the Novotel Palembang river. In addition to the races, the boats River near the Ampera Bridge. Hotel and Residence (accorhotels. are decorated and cultural events are com) which is located in the city also staged, including outdoor music Sumatra is an immense island – over centre on Jalan R. Sukamto. It is an festivals. 440,000 sq km – so do not be expansive, low-rise, 194-room deceived if you feel you want to resort-style property that Palembang has several traditional explore. Palembang is the capital of resembles a fort more than a hotel, markets with a fresh produce morning South Sumatra, and adventurous but has many facilities for relaxing market located just near the front travellers are best-advised to head such as restaurants, a swimming entrance to Kuto Besak Fort. (It is off to discover attractions in South pool, tennis courts, and jogging obvious that they do not see too many Sumatra such as Mount Dempo track. camera-toting tourists here, so you can (295 km away, and home to cool be assured of celebrity status and lots mountains and tea plantations), Ranau Travel Tips of interest, especially from the kids.) Lake (volcanic lake surrounded by tea Plan an early day of sightseeing as The local fabric songket is just one of and coffee plantations), and Sembilang the sun rises and sets an hour many handicrafts that visitors can buy National Park (a bird paradise, with earlier than in Malaysia (it is also an here, with Fikri Koleksi (500 Jln crocodiles and dolphins in the hour behind Malaysian time). Kiranggo Wiro Sentiko) a good source surrounding waters). The Expat expatgo.com • 37

ex pat excu rs i on s : ind onesia By Priscilla Emmanuel The Origins of Rijsttafel How a Humble Communal Meal Became a Shared Cultural Dining Experience Rijsttafel I nspired and adapted by traditional Indonesian communal eating, rijsttafel became an extravagant display of colonial power among the Dutch and is one of the remaining legacies of four centuries of Dutch rule in Indonesia. According to food historian – yes, that’s a real thing – Peter G. Rose, rijsttafel should actually be regarded as a hybrid feast of Indonesian dishes in spite of the name being coined by the Dutch. A literal translation is ‘rice table,’ denoting to the hidang presentation of multiple dishes served with rice that came from the Padang region of West Sumatra. You may also know of or have tried this style of cuisine which in post-colonial times is known as nasi padang. 38 • The Expat expatgo.com

A Dutch family eating rijsttafel at the Hotel Savoy Homann in Bandung, Indonesia, in 1933 A traditional rijsttafel feast may include small side dishes, sometimes as many as 40 different items! Although all the dishes served are undoubtedly Indonesian, enjoying rijsttafel as a sit-down meal was started by the Dutch as display of wealth and status – and to impress visitors to their prized colony. An undeniably exciting event that promises to tantalise the tastebuds, rijsttafel features an extensive list of flavours, colours, textures, and varying degrees of spiciness. Popular choices that would be served at a rijsttafel include egg rolls, an array of sambals, satay, grilled fish, braised meat stews, all kinds of fresh salad options, as well as cooked vegetables, pickles, fruits, and nuts. Textures differ sambal lalab. There would also be Hotel des Indes in Batavia and the and delight diners who experiene spicy rendang and gulai curry from the Savoy Homann Hotel in Bandung, crispy, chewy, soft, hard, velvety, Minangkabau region in Sumatera, as where the rice would be accompanied gelatinous, or runny mouthfuls of well as ubiquitous East Indies dishes by about 60 different dishes! This dishes packed with rich flavours. such as nasi goreng, soto ayam, and celebrated weekly ritual managed to krupuk (also keropok or kroepoek) be continued until the Japanese Rijsttafel was started to provide a crackers. Let’s also not forget hybrid occupation began in 1942. festive and official banquet that would influences like Chinese-Indonesian represent the multi-ethnic nature of dishes that include babi ketjap, After Indonesia gained independence the Indonesian archipelago. Delegates loempia, and bami, not to mention the in 1945, Dutch colonists, exiled and representatives of the Dutch European-inspired braised stew called Indonesians, and Indo-Europeans companies at the time who travelled smoor or semur. (Eurasians) brought the concept of to these different regions often took rijsttafel back with them to the their personal cooks or kokki with During colonial times in the Dutch East Netherlands, and since the 90s, them, who then returned having their Indies, a rijsttafel meal would begin Southeast Asian cuisine has become a culinary repertoires enriched with with a long line of sarong-clad servants mainstream interest with a modern added knowledge. The hundreds of who would facilitate the marathon population, and Indonesian restaurants inhabited islands on the Indonesian dining event with platters laden with are found quite abundantly there. archipelago contain more than 300 steaming bowls of delicious local Many Indonesians, however, upon regional and ethnic language groups, foods. The meal started with a gaining independence, promoted the each with their own type of specialised cone-shaped pile of rice, often nasi rejection of Dutch colonial culture and cuisine. kuning (‘yellow celebration rice’ – rice customs – and that included the tinted with bright turmeric) on a large flamboyant rice table. Today, only a It became common for a rijsttafel meal platter which was placed in the centre handful of fine-dining Indonesian to include Javanese favourites such as of the table before being surrounded restaurants serve rijsttafel, including a satay, tempeh, and seroendeng, to with dozens of dishes with portions of few hotel restaurants on the popular vegetarian heavy dishes from Jakarta cooked foods, sides, and condiments. island of Bali, where the traditional ‘rice (then called Batavia) and Parahyangan The most notable rijsttafels used to be table’ can still be found in places from (Preanger) like gado-gado, lodeh, and served for Sunday luncheon at the Seminyak to Ubud to Sanur. The Expat expatgo.com • 39

ex pat n ew s Airlines & Travel ERL LAUNCHES KLIA EKSPRES The newly upgraded KLIA Ekspres app APP AND EKSPRESMILES LOYALTY allows customers to buy their train PROGRAM tickets more easily and explore better Express Rail Link Sdn Bhd (ERL) recently deals with features such as ‘Lowest Fare introduced its new KLIA Ekspres First’ and ‘Great Value application and EkspreSmiles loyalty Recommendations.’ With the new program at a virtual launch event EkspreSmiles loyalty program, officiated by the Minister of Transport customers can sign up as a member Malaysia. and have a rewarding travel experience as they earn EkspreSmiles Points for During the launch event on the KLIA every successful booking and redeem Ekspres Facebook Live platform, YB them to enjoy better discounts on Datuk Seri Dr. Ir. Wee Ka Siong said, future purchases. “The pandemic has been a blessing in disguise in that there is now a greater During the launch campaign period emphasis on going digital and going Meanwhile, ERL CEO Noormah Mohd from October 12 to December 15, 2021, cashless in our daily transactions, Noor said, “With the advancement of customers will get double points when including on public transport. ERL has technology over the years, we need to they sign up as an EkspreSmiles been at the forefront of cashless improve our customers’ purchase and member and they can also enjoy solutions for a while now. ERL was the travel experience by providing them double points for their ticket purchases. first rail service in Asia Pacific to accept better features and value, as well as The bonus points can also be earned Visa contactless payment at their gates rewarding them through our new when purchasing packages and certain in 2010, launched their mobile app in EkspreSmiles loyalty program. With the discounted fares such as the popular 2013, and now accepts almost all easing of travel restrictions, more Family Package and Group Saver. digital/e-wallets at the counter and people can now travel for business, online. Their goals and action are work, and leisure purposes, so we hope To learn more, and to find out about certainly in line with our country’s the launch is timely to get the public to the RM1 ERL joyride initiative, visit aspiration for a digital economy that will travel by public transport again and kliaexpres.com. You can also find them benefit commuters and travellers alike.” benefit from this app.” on Facebook and Instagram. SINGAPORE AIRLINES EXPANDS States. (These are in addition to the fly from Singapore to Paris, and then QUARANTINE-FREE VACCINATED existing VTL arrangements with Brunei Paris to Amsterdam, and still be TRAVEL SCHEME and Germany, which began in eligible for the VTL flight from Singapore Airlines (SIA) has expanded September 2021.) Amsterdam to Singapore. However, a its quarantine-free Vaccinated Travel customer who flies from Singapore to Lane (VTL) network to 14 cities, and The VTL services began operating from Los Angeles via Tokyo would not be says it expects to add additional cities Amsterdam, Barcelona, Copenhagen, eligible for SIA’s non-stop VTL flight in the coming weeks. London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, from Los Angeles if the stay in Los Paris, and Rome on October 19. Angeles is less than 14 days. The VTL flights had previously been available to Germany and Brunei. The Singapore Airline’s VTL services from Customers travelling on the VTL flights new VTL list includes Canada, Seoul will begin on November 16. As of can then transfer via Singapore Changi Denmark, France, Italy, the press time, Singapore Airlines was Airport to 59 destinations within the Netherlands, South Korea, Spain, the operating VTL services from Bandar SIA Group network. All customers United Kingdom, and the United Seri Begawan, Frankfurt, and Munich. must ensure that they are eligible for In addition, Scoot, SIA’s sister airline, Singapore’s VTL arrangements before began operating VTL flights from their flights. Berlin on October 20. Confused yet? Welcome the new Multi-city itineraries within VTL world order of international travel. countries are allowed if customers meet the 14-day travel history To learn more, see ‘Vaccinated Travel requirement, which includes transit Lanes (VTL)’ on Singapore Airlines’ countries. For example, a traveller may website at singaporeair.com. 40 • The Expat expatgo.com

MALAYSIA AIMS THAILAND LIFTS TO SET REGIONAL QUARANTINE MANDATE STANDARD FOR FOR UK ARRIVALS, SAFE TRAVEL OTHERS Malaysia’s high level Despite having fully of vaccination, vaccinated less than 35% coupled with of its population, Thailand plunging rates of hospitalisations and deaths due to will lift quarantine Covid, have allowed high-level talks to commence on requirements for reopening the country and restarting the long-suffering vaccinated travellers arriving by air from the travel and tourism industries, which have been UK and nine other countries from November 1. (Reciprocally, decimated by the nearly two years-long pandemic. Thailand has also been removed from the UK’s ‘red’ list, meaning that travellers will not have to undergo a hotel Those talks culminated on Sunday, October 10, with the quarantine upon return to England.) signing of a Memorandum of Understanding for the “Travel Safe Alliance Malaysia” initiative (TSAM) between Thai Prime Minister Prayuth Chan-ocha announced the news four of Malaysia’s biggest travel-related organisations, in a televised speech on Monday, stating that the move was along with the Minister of Tourism, Arts, and Culture, YB needed so as to “not miss the opportunity to entice some of Dato’ Sri Hajah Nancy Shukri. The auspicious signing the year-end and new year holiday season travellers,” event took place at The Danna in Langkawi and is a according to the Financial Times. significant step towards Malaysia once again welcoming international travellers. Visitors will need to take a pre-departure RT-PCR test and also undergo testing upon arrival in Thailand. The travel industry has been dramatically changed by The 10 countries included on the ‘low-risk, no-quarantine list’ Covid-19, and many of those changes will be include the UK, Singapore, Germany, China, and the US. permanent. In recognition of the demands of a post- Malaysia presumably did not make the cut, and finding the Covid world, Malaysia has set forth to reinvent and entire list of applicable countries, as well as official guidelines revitalise the crucial travel, tourism, and MICE sector that governing such travel, is surprisingly difficult. is so important to Malaysia’s economy and international image. Chan-ocha said that the list will increase by December 1, and that it will become even more “extensive” by January 1. He The four organisations involved in the TSAM initiative added, “I know this decision comes with some risk. It is include: almost certain that we will see a temporary rise in serious • Malaysian Association of Tour and Travel Agents cases as we relax these restrictions. (MATTA) • Malaysian Association of Hotels (MAH) “We will have to track the situation very carefully and see • Malaysian Association of Convention and Exhibition how to contain and live with that situation, because I do not Organisers and Suppliers (MACEOS) think that the many millions who depend on the income • Malaysia Aviation Group (MAG), comprising Malaysia generated by the travel, leisure, and entertainment sector can Airlines, Firefly, and MASWings possibly afford the devastating blow of a second lost new year holiday period.” With the assistance of Bureau Veritas, TSAM’s internationally recognised certification partner, the three Thailand will also introduce measures in the case of the leading associations MATTA, MAH, and MACEOS have emergence of a “very harmful” new variant of the virus. developed travel safe solutions based on standards set Eligible visitors from these countries will need to show that by the World Health Organization (WHO) and further they are Covid-free at the time of travel. They will have to enhanced to cater to Malaysia’s specific industry and show evidence of a negative PCR test taken in their home local safety and health requirements; namely the “Travel country before departing and then take a second test upon Safe” label for travel and tour arrangers, “Clean & Safe arrival in Thailand, apparently in the illogical belief that they Malaysia” for hotels, and “SafeBE” for Business Events would have potentially contracted the disease while en route and convention venues. – and that it would show up immediately on a test taken on arrival. Moreover, Malaysia Airlines, the flagship airline of the country and of Malaysia Aviation Group, has achieved According to the Financial Times, Thailand generates the coveted seven-star certified ranking for Covid approximately one-fifth of its GDP from jobs in tourism and compliance and seamless, safe, and hygienic travel, as related sectors, and reported a record 40 million arrivals in conferred by the respected airlineratings.com through its 2019. Related to that, Reuters reports that Thailand lost some “Fly Confidently” campaign. US$50 billion in tourism revenue last year, which equates to an 82% drop. The Travel Safe Alliance, in conjunction with similar initiatives in other regional countries – namely Visit thaiembassy.com for information. Singapore, primarily – will provide end-to-end “safe travel solutions” for both business and leisure travels. The Expat expatgo.com • 41

c ur re nt event s by chad merchant A Tale of Two Countries: Different Journeys, Same Destination Neighbouring countries Malaysia and Singapore have had wildly divergent experiences with the Covid-19 pandemic, and have reacted in ways almost as different. In the end, though, reality has driven both countries to reach the same conclusions. Malaysia C ovid is here to stay. Some of that caused it will not likely be going Successes and stumbles have come even the most stubborn away anytime soon. for both countries, though at very holdouts (we’re looking at different points in the pandemic. you, Australia) have finally ASEAN neighbours and (occasional conceded that the zero-Covid strategy, squabbling siblings) Malaysia and But despite the divergent paths taken, tantalising as it may appear, is doomed Singapore have each endured the the two countries have ultimately to fail. We will, as a planet and as a nearly two-year-long pandemic quite arrived at the same destination: A species, eventually be free of the differently, with varying approaches perhaps grudging acceptance that we pandemic and its effects on global and strategies being deployed at must now learn to live with Covid. We societies and economies, but the virus different times along the journey. will not eradicate the virus, nor will we 42 • The Expat expatgo.com

Singapore ‘win’ over it. We will adapt and array of restrictions — some quite transmissible and worrying strain yet, incorporate it into our lives, just as we long-lasting — were put in place. The the Delta variant. have with the endemic diseases king, purportedly at the behest of caused by pathogens like rhinovirus then-Prime Minister Muhyiddin Yassin, And with that strain, the worst was yet and influenza. controversially declared a state of to come. Despite a robust nationwide emergency for the country that would vaccination programme that kicked It’s unquestionably been a difficult and persist until August, and consequently, into high gear around April following uncertain journey for both countries, Parliament was suspended. All the an initial stumble out of the gate in late peppered with triumphs, setbacks, while, however – despite the intentions February and early March, the summer disastrous mistakes, and dashed and actions of the country’s leaders – months saw soaring new highs in hopes. Here’s how it played out in both the coronavirus was evolving and cases, deaths, and hospitalisations as Malaysia and Singapore. strengthening as it readied its most Malaysia’s healthcare system was MALAYSIA After a long 2020 filled with various movement control orders and on-and-off again restrictions, Covid cases here began their most catastrophic surge early in 2021. It was a dispiriting time in Malaysia, to say the least. In the last quarter of 2020, there were hopes that the worst of the pandemic was in the rear-view mirror, and accordingly, a number of restrictions had been eased. By January, however, things had gone well off the rails: Interstate travel was banned throughout the country, shopping centres were closed and Malaysia’s vaccination efforts have been genuinely impressive – and the results speak for themselves lockdowns were reimposed, and an The Expat expatgo.com • 43

c ur re nt event s counts, and the R-naught infectivity index. Everything finally began moving in the right direction. As of October 19, an incredible 94% of Malaysia’s adult population is fully vaccinated (and over 70% of the total population), and vaccines for A stunning surge of fatalities in mid-2021 all but crippled Malaysia’s healthcare system adolescents are now proceeding at a brisk pace, with 79.1% of the country’s 12- to 17-year-olds having already received their first dose. Moreover, just as critically, the government marked a significant change in its approach. No longer would daily new cases get so much attention. No longer would the country set arbitrary case counts as catalysts to take action. Malaysia would instead The arrival of the first vaccines in late February was a milestone in Malaysia’s fight against Covid-19 stretched to the breaking point. By the growing disgust and despair among middle of the year, Malaysia had one the public. of the worst rates of infection and death of any Asian country when Schools were shut down, gatherings adjusted for population. At the banned, restaurants prohibited from beginning of May 2021, Malaysia had offering dine-in service, domestic only logged some 1,500 total deaths; travel restricted… and there was no now, that tally is over 28,000. end in sight. Daily new cases routinely topped 20,000 as August wore on. Frustrations increased among residents But then, even in the face of the in Malaysia who were forced to endure stunning rise of the Delta variant, the yet more restrictions on their investment of the country’s impressive movements, and protests against the vaccination drive at last began to pay government’s handling of the virus handsome dividends. As August gave broke out in July. Healthcare workers way to September, ICU cases started mounted a strike. The following to decline from an alarming peak. And month, Muhyiddin was forced to throughout September, all the critical resign, a move fuelled in part by a loss Covid numbers began to plunge: daily of support in Parliament and in part by cases, deaths, hospitalisations, cluster 44 • The Expat expatgo.com

swiftly pivot to a strategy of learning to live with Covid. Roadblocks in Malaysia during the MCO Dine-in was once again allowed. Events were permitted anew, albeit were also given the green light to travel speed, all thanks to the safety and with a number of SOPs to follow. More abroad without need for application to effectiveness of the Covid vaccines business sectors reopened. Then, on the onerous MyTravelPass scheme. combined with a superb effort by both September 16, Langkawi was reopened authorities and the public alike to get to domestic tourists via a travel bubble The government has assured millions of people immunised. For the scheme that saw near-immediate Malaysians that at this point, there is first time in the long night of the success. Two weeks later, the pieces no looking back. Travel bans will not be coronavirus pandemic, Malaysians are were being put into place for wider- reimposed, they said, and there will be feeling a spark of genuine hope. scale reopenings, and on October 10, no more wide-scale lockdowns or Prime Minister Ismail Sabri Yaakob movement restrictions. Malaysians SINGAPORE announced what so many Malaysians have of course heard similar Malaysia’s southern neighbour had been longing to hear for months: assurances before (“No more blanket ostensibly pivoted to a resolute Interstate travel would be allowed MCOs!”) that were later rescinded, but acceptance of having to live with Covid without restriction for fully vaccinated somehow, this time feels different. a good bit earlier than most residents beginning the very next day. A new way forward has taken hold in (announcing in May 2021 that it would As an additional bonus, Malaysians Malaysia with almost breathtaking shift to this strategy over time), but After months of take-out and delivery only, Malaysians cautiously embraced in-person dining once again The Expat expatgo.com • 45

c ur re nt event s Migrant workers in Singapore Day 1 of Singapore’s first ‘circuit breaker’ lockdown in May 2020 then a fresh wave of infections in under – decisions met with some see future surges, especially if new August and September – Singapore’s irritation by Singaporeans, as Reuters variants emerge,” Lee said. “We may worst in the entire pandemic – resulted reported (and a quick glance at social have to tap on the brakes again if cases in a prompt weakening of that resolve, media in Singapore confirmed). again grow too fast, to protect our much to the ire of many Singaporeans, healthcare system and healthcare who were frustrated at their freedoms During his address on October 10, the workers.” being once against curtailed. The pivot same day Malaysia was announcing would be forestalled, and Singapore the resumption of interstate travel, Throughout most of 2020, Singapore would again be placed on the Singaporean Prime Minister Lee Hsien was hailed as a model of successful defensive. Loong said it would take “at least three Covid mitigation. A notable stumble months, and perhaps as long as six with outbreaks amid crowded migrant On October 1, Singapore reimposed months” to become completely worker dormitories not only put the some local restrictions to thwart the restriction-free. He also suggested the government on its heels fighting the spread. The tighter measures included possibility of future lockdowns if cases contagion, but also set it playing limiting social gatherings to two people begin to rise again – something defence against a storm of criticism for and suspending or moving classes Malaysia has expressly ruled out. its poor treatment of the foreign entirely online for students age 12 and “After this surge stabilises, we may still workers on which Singapore’s success 46 • The Expat expatgo.com

Singaporean Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong addresses the country with a Covid update on 9 October 2021 has largely been built. Without a doubt, that stretch marked the city-state’s most challenging time in 2020. But a methodical, swift response ensured that they prevailed with minimal deaths, and things continued rolling along. A couple of cursory ‘circuit breaker’ mini-lockdowns – usually lasting for a handful of weeks at a time – helped curtail any large- scale outbreaks for the remainder of the year. But just as Malaysia found, 2021 would bring tough new challenges and greater threats to Singapore, too. After a full year of successful containment, Singapore saw its greatest surge in cases beginning in Even though the rate of Covid deaths September 2021 in Singapore has been among Asia’s lowest, authorities there seem keen to Many took to social media to express government has maintained its take no chances, so as cases began their displeasure and opine that the commitment to accepting that living rising in September, it appeared the government had no clear plan, nor any with Covid is their way forward. Critics decision to abandon the zero-Covid exit strategy on which they could seem in the city-state continue to question approach was questioned and even to steadfastly focus. that assurance, however, given the reversed, at least in part. The back- prime minister’s ominous hints that and-forth waffling by the government Despite the tightening of some lockdowns may be reintroduced if clearly frustrated a lot of residents. measures, however, Singapore’s cases continue rising. It seems as though some in Singapore’s government are trying to have it both ways – a tactic that will surely be met with frustration and, most likely, failure. Some media outlets in Singapore have predicted – or perhaps it’s more like wishful thinking – that the current batch of restrictions may well be the last, provided the surge in cases eases and the country’s healthcare system is not strained. Others have said the government likes the idea of accepting life with Covid, but can’t quite let go of the zero-Covid model in actual practice. Time will tell. Reports from CNN Asia, The Straits Times, and Bernama contributed to this article, along with data from Health Ministries in Malaysia and Singapore. Up-to-date information on the Covid situation in Malaysia can be Despite setbacks and struggles, Singapore has been an overall success story in the pandemic battle found at covidnow.moh.gov.my. The Expat expatgo.com • 47

art A ‘Loverly’ Arrangement for All Occasions With a family business spanning three generations and an iconic film as its inspiration, Jaruwan Cheong of My Fair Lady Florist speaks to Sarah Anne Lee about the language of flowers and the demands of modern business. Jaruwan Cheong, known more casually as Jae, flowers were always more than just a temporary decoration for a room. But even with a family trading in the florist business for over five decades, a traditional upbringing meant that finance and business were the top priority for education well into tertiary studies. Jaruwan Cheong It wasn’t until Jae hit her milestones of C becoming a wife and a mother, then an flowers, and more finally managing to take some time specifically, the arrangement away from working in a bank, when the of those flowers be seeds of change were sprouting and considered art? Well, floral her granduncle, founder of the My Fair arrangements frequently inspire Lady Florist Sdn Bhd, offered her the emotions just as readily as other chance to take over the family legacy. artistic endeavours. Scenes in movies show a flustered boy grabbing a Today, with Jae as the third-generation handful of flowers in the ultimately showrunner and with 57 years of romantic gesture to finally grab the family operation, My Fair Lady Florist attention of his one true love, or to blooms brighter than ever. offer a quiet symbol of solidarity with a significant other. Real-life social media It doesn’t take a super fan of pop culture posts show over-the-top grand to be familiar with the namesake iconic gestures in acts of proposals, 300- movie from 1964 starring Audrey head rose bouquets, and multi- Hepburn as a street flower girl who coloured arrangements for photoshoot finds herself whisked away to finer backdrops. things for the amusement of a linguist and a colonel betting on refining her For banker-turned-florist – and also accent and hiding her street origin. But qualified Montessori Educator! – the true moral of the story isn’t about 48 • The Expat expatgo.com

fitting in with the right social class, but connecting with what’s inside, beyond how one speaks or where one comes from. With this core value in mind, My Fair Lady Florist found its inspiration and lasting drive: to convey individual personalities and feelings via the medium of flowers. Continuing such established and quality service as pioneered by family, Jae explains that the floral arrangement business is a true pursuit of passion and expresses being fortunate to mingle work and play every single day, all while creating artistic expressions through colourful flowers. Jae draws motivation from her clients, finding inspirations in their stories and commissions for a renowned bank in While on a very different journey from absolute satisfaction in their happiness Malaysia, as well as commissions for a when she took up the mantle, Jae has upon receiving her interpretations. Royal Family. effectively demonstrated her capabilities and versatility for both the When asked if a professional language Difficulties in the business aren’t so business and the presentation sides of for flowers exists, Jae notes that every much external, but the stress comes the endeavour – something that’s event and occasion brings with it a from running out of a particular flower often a challenge for many creatives! different meaning. A wedding and a for an arrangement, and being unable corporate event, for example, might to find a replacement as well. Jae Today, My Fair Lady Florist continues ask for a similar fairytale theme, but expresses gratitude for her clients who to shine as one of the many both are absolutely separate in understand and give her free rein to independent businesses under The intention. Jae firmly believes in the curate. Artisans Haven banner, a digital mall immense powers of communication dedicated to connecting these artists that flowers have, as well as the Shifting from event-based and walk-in to virtually showcase, market, and sell non-verbal ability to help express orders prior to the pandemic to their handmade products. human emotion in any circumstance, inevitably carving out an online from baby showers to funerals. presence to keep afloat brought To view and purchase My Fair Lady amazing experience to Jae and her Florist’s specialised arrangements, Her personal favourites have always team at My Fair Lady Florist, driving visit myfairlady.my or artisanshaven. been weddings, but Jae also considers requests to lean more towards com.my/retailers/my_fair_lady_ her biggest accomplishments to be personal flowers and customised gifts. florist. The Expat expatgo.com • 49

c ur re nt event s by Expatgo staff 3 New Things We’ve Learned About the Covid Vaccines For some countries, the last few weeks have not only marked a turning point in the coronavirus pandemic, but also brought along some interesting new information about the vaccines we’re using to fight Covid-19, as well. W e’re now nearing two full years of living with Covid-19 and also nearing two years of amassing all the evolving data and information that comes along with a global pandemic. To date, over 240 million people have been infected and nearly five million have died, numbers that, while huge, also represent a likely staggering undercount of the true human impact of the disease. In addition to restricted movements, economic upheaval, and new standard procedures for nearly everything, the other thing a pandemic creates is a mountain of data. And as time goes on, If you’ve had and recovered from Covid, getting vaccinated makes your immunity even stronger we learn more and more about the 50 • The Expat expatgo.com

Younger children will likely be able to get vaccinated in the coming weeks virus and everything associated with it. 1. IF YOU’VE HAD COVID-19 BEFORE, among those who were fully Sometimes the information is GETTING THE VACCINE GIVES YOU vaccinated and who had also completely new, while other times, we A PARTICULARLY STRONG LEVEL OF previously been infected with and learn things that supplant or supersede IMMUNITY recovered from Covid-19. The results previous knowledge. It’s all just part of A study that was published in from the study lent support to the U.S. the evolutionary nature of a pandemic. September focused on a small-scale Centers for Disease Control’s population — that of a prison in Texas recommendation that people get For a number of countries — including in the United States — but confirmed vaccinated, even if they’ve already had Malaysia — September 2021 marked a what had been suspected in broader Covid-19. Ultimately, it’s just that group notable turning point in the battle populations: The strongest resistance who, once fully vaccinated, end up against Covid. Whether or not the comes from a combination of acquired having the strongest immunity to the shift marks a lasting movement immunity (from having Covid-19 and worst effects of the disease. towards normalcy remains to be seen, recovering) and full vaccination. but for now, plenty of people are 2. IF YOU’RE NOT VACCINATED, YOU finally starting to see a glimpse of light As detailed in the study, the Delta ARE 10 TIMES MORE LIKELY TO BE at the end of a long, dark tunnel. variant of Covid ripped through the HOSPITALISED BY COVID Texas penitentiary and infected The stunning spread of Covid’s Delta September also saw the results of a three-quarters of everyone variant forced many researchers back number of studies being published, incarcerated there, even though most to the drawing board to revisit a lot of including data from Pfizer showing of the inmates had been immunised what was previously understood about that two lowered doses of its vaccine with the Pfizer vaccine. The results of the disease. The much more are highly effective in children (age 5 the study showed that not only does transmissible strain served up fresh to 11), so as this process moves from the Delta variant live up to its high- new challenges to governments and short-term emergency authorisation transmissibility reputation (especially experts around the world. Not only towards official full approval by in situations where people are crowded was Delta exponentially more various authorities, we should be together indoors), but also that the transmissible than the original strain of seeing some movement on that in vaccine was very effective in Covid (or any variant up to that time), it the coming weeks, likely including preventing severe illness and death. Of appeared to have a greater ability to here in Malaysia, too. Along with all who were infected, there was only break through the protection offered Pfizer’s information, which had been one case that required hospitalisation. by vaccines. expected, we also discovered three more new things about the Covid Moreover, the study revealed that the Initially a source of great anxiety, time vaccines that are worth pointing out. lowest rate of severe illness was and plenty of informal observational The Expat expatgo.com • 51

c ur re nt event s Mental health boost, just another perk of getting vaccinated studies showed that while moderate to severe depression. mental well-being. So the importance breakthrough cases did occur with Moreover, even people who hadn’t of a mental health benefit of Delta, the vaccines still held up well been vaccinated yet, but who intended vaccination is an additional bonus with regard to severe cases or death, to get the jab, saw a boost in their experts say we should not minimise or keeping both to a minimum. New data overall mental well-being. dismiss. published by the CDC in September confirmed those observations. Jennifer A. King, assistant professor The research gleaned from real-world and co-director of the Center on SOURCES: data on breakthrough cases, along with Trauma and Adversity at Case Western • huffpost.com/entry/pfizer-covid- infections and outcomes from the Reserve University, said she believes 19-vaccine-children-fda-authorizati Delta variant, showed that people who that improvements were seen in on_n_61486fe5e4b0efa77f82a289 are unvaccinated are 10 times more people’s mental health because the • cnbc.com/2021/09/29/pfizer- likely to be hospitalised and nearly 11 vaccines offered people hope. covid-vaccine-gottlieb-says-fda- times more likely to die compared to “Across demographics, we’ve seen approval-for-young-kids-by- those who are fully vaccinated. increases in anxiety symptoms, halloween-possible.html If you needed another good reason to depression symptoms, and, most • huffpost.com/entry/study-covid- get the jab, it doesn’t get much more notably, staggeringly high rates of vaccine_l_6151dbbde4b098483a7 compelling than this. trauma-related symptoms,” she said. 92e18 “Add to that the grief incurred by major • healthline.com/health-news/ 3. AN UNEXPECTED SIDE EFFECT losses (death, economic loss, loss of why-mental-health-improved-for- OF VACCINES: IMPROVED MENTAL control, loss of identity), the forced many-adults-after-their-1st-covid- HEALTH isolation of lockdown and quarantines, 19-shot Obviously, the primary job of the and the sustained high levels of stress • cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/70/wr/ Covid vaccines is to prevent severe that are related to all of this, and it is mm7037e1.htm?s_ illness and death. This is their main easy to see why many of us are not cid=mm7037e1_w benefit, and all the vaccines have okay.” • huffpost.com/entry/covid-vaccine- proven — courtesy of billions of doses mental-health-benefits_l_6138c73 administered worldwide over the last King added that after months of be4b0aac9c01ea4c2 year — to be quite effective at this task. anxiety, uncertainly, and But now, a new study published in unpredictability, getting vaccinated, for Remember, what experts know about September has revealed another many people, offered a sense of hope. Covid-19 changes over time. Though health perk: People who get vaccinated In recent years, experts (and the information and guidance can change seem to experience improvements in general public) have really come to as we learn more, the details in this their mental health. better understand and accept that story are what was known at the time of mental health is every bit as important publication. Reports from the U.S. According to reports from Healthline to overall well-being as physical health. Centers for Disease Control, Healthline, and HuffPost referencing the study, It’s no exaggeration to say that the CNBC, and HuffPost contributed to this after just one jab, people were up to pandemic has placed people under article. 15% less likely to show signs of profound stress and eroded their 52 • The Expat expatgo.com

b ody a n d s o u l by Expatgo staff 4-7-8: An Easy Path to a Better State of Mind This simple technique can help alleviate stress and anxiety, promote sleep, and lead to a healthier and more balanced overall mindset. W ash your hands for 20 seconds, that’s what That’s it! 4-7-8. You can repeat this cycle, as well, up to a we’ve been told for the last year and a half. It’s total of four times, and you will tangibly feel the relaxation a critical key to better health, and during the and de-stressing in your body and mind. Some people claim pandemic, this handwashing technique has that using this method when lying in bed at night can get become a firm habit for many. But with one second less, them to fall asleep within a minute or two, as well. there’s another technique you can use to improve your mental health, too. During this time of increased anxiety, social isolation, and general weariness from a world gone mad, a simple little It’s called the 4-7-8 method, and it could hardly be any breathing technique can truly go a long way to helping us take easier. You just have to carve out an entire 19 seconds for the edge off and reclaim some balance, if only a little bit. yourself and put it into practice. It works anywhere, anytime, and for anyone. (Not entirely true… don’t try this while According to Healthline, there is one important caveat to driving or operating heavy machinery!) It will help reduce keep in mind: This breathing technique shouldn’t be stress, ease anxiety, and promote ‘clear-headedness’ — practiced in a setting where you’re not prepared to be always a good thing. It can even help you fall asleep more relaxed. While it doesn’t necessarily have to be used for easily. It will absolutely induce a state of relaxation and calm. falling asleep, it can still put the practitioner into a state of genuine relaxation. Make sure you don’t need to be fully alert Here’s what to do: immediately after practicing your breathing cycles. • First, empty your lungs of air through relaxed, slightly parted lips. The 4-7-8 breathing method was developed by Dr Andrew • Then, inhale slowly and deeply through your nose over a Weil, who based it on an ancient technique used in yoga period of 4 seconds. Fill your lungs. called pranayama. By simply exerting control over our • Hold the breath for 7 seconds. (Yup, you need to count it breathing, we can induce relaxation and curb anxiety and off in your mind: One-one thousand, two-one thousand, stress. three-one thousand….) This is the most important part of the process, so no shortcuts! So forget 1-2-3 (and A-B-C and do-re-mi, too) and give • Slowly exhale through slightly parted lips over a span of  4-7-8 a try… you might be surprised at just how effective it 8 seconds. can be! The Expat expatgo.com • 53

e d ucat i o n School Snaps Malaysia’s numerous international schools are regularly abuzz with activities, and we share here just some of the news of their recent events and successes. ISKL’s IB Scholarship Student Raises RM 20,000 Fundraiser for ‘White Flag’ Movement Congratulations to Nurin A. (‘22), a Grade 12 student and International Baccalaureate (IB) Scholar at the International School of Kuala Lumpur (ISKL), who conducted an online AISM Students Win fundraiser successfully raising RM20,000 to aid Bronze in 2021 Queen’s the ‘Bendera Putih’ or ‘White Flag’ movement! Commonwealth Essay With the donations, Nurin worked with various Competition non-governmental organizations such as Kembara Kitchen, Pertiwi Kitchen, SERUM Three students from Australian Initiative, MBKJ Cheras and a single mother’s group in Langkawi, to purchase International School Malaysia (AISM) and distribute essential items such as non-perishable food, sanitary items, achieved Bronze Awards in the 2021 baby formula, baby diapers, and other necessities. Royal Commonwealth Essay Competition. It is a commendable feat Nurin, a recipient of the IB scholarship, joined ISKL in 2020 and is President that Isis Janett from Year 4, Rafael of the KL-based youth-led initiative ‘Rotaract Club of Bukit Kiara Sunrise.’ Dobson from Year 5, and Jasmin She decided to head the fundraiser as part of her Creativity, Activity, Service Priyanka Unsworth from Year 7 (CAS) project, an essential component of the International Baccalaureate received this award in a writing Diploma Programme (IBDP). CAS is where students undergo real-life competition that attracts very high experiences shaped through collaboration towards a collective goal and level applications. The theme of the vision. competition was Community in the Commonwealth, with a focus on how Commonwealth countries have coped with and overcome adversities brought The Time is Now at GEMS about by the Covid-19 Pandemic. International School! Participants were allowed to submit any form of creative prose. AISM What our children tell us about school (or students being awarded this Bronze don’t tell us) is valuable input. The right Award has reaffirmed the ongoing school fit is extremely important. Your child’s dedication and passion of the English and your expectations must both be met by the school. Faculty teachers at AISM who instill passion for this subject in our students. GEMS’ educational philosophy is based on the simple yet powerful principle that all children are capable of great things. The diverse faculty of our well “The Queen’s Commonwealth Essay qualified teachers led by our esteemed Principal, Mr Anthony Partington Competition is the world’s oldest ensures the delivery of exceptional education experience at GEMS international writing competition for International School. schools, established in 1883. With thousands of young people taking part Our academic results are a testament to the collective effort of teachers and each year, it is an important way to parents in ensuring that each student is provided with the all necessary recognise achievement, elevate youth support to overcome any academic, social, and/or emotional challenges. voices and develop key skills through GEMS International School is currently running a very special promotion for creative writing.” an immediate start and/or for Term 2/January 2022 admission! Speak to our Enrolment Advisors TODAY to learn more about this. For more information, visit royalcwsociety.org/the-qcec For more information, please visit our website at metropark.gems.edu.my. 54 • The Expat expatgo.com

OIS Student Selected for Raffles American Harvard Future Lawyers School Celebrates Programme International Week Virtually The Future Lawyers Program hosted by the Harvard Student Association introduces High Our Student Council (StuCo) School students to the field of law, comprehensive legal didn’t allow virtual learning to dampen the exciting systems, and how to read and build a case. With guidance international week celebrations in the Raffles from qualified Harvard mentors, students develop Secondary School. The StuCo cabinet amplified collaborative thinking and teamwork skills as well as gain students’ voices and choices during our international insight into navigating the path to law school. OIS senior, week. Led by the Treasurer, our Public Relations Gabriel Hale, was selected to attend the October sessions standing committee worked tirelessly behind the that lasted over two weekends. Gabe shared, “I appreciated scenes to create graphics, posters, and videos that the fact that it was not just American-centric and we were promoted the event. While our House Block standing encouraged to research other legal systems over the course committee, led by the Secretary, planned an of the program. The trial at the end was one of the most international day quiz and activities to celebrate the entertaining parts, as we had to actually debate against diversity of our multicultural community. another team and a winner was declared out of our two teams. I would definitely recommend this for anyone who is Thanks to their tireless efforts, the international week mildly interested in the field of law to better understand the was a huge success that created space for all to content you would be working within that profession.” recognize differences while celebrating our shared values. The StuCo cabinet itself is a perfect reflection of Explore Learn with Leaders Future Lawyers Programme by the multilingual, multicultural, and diverse place that visiting learnwithleaders.com/futurelawyersprogram. Raffles American School is. a monthly magazine promoting Malaysia to the international community news . travel . lifestyle . education . health . Visit expatgo.com to subscribe for a print or digital copy For further information, contact Lini at 012.225 9492 or email linidavison@tegmedia.my The Expat expatgo.com • 55

e d ucat i o n Developing the Wholeness of a Child A Glimpse into ISKL’s Early Childhood ‘Provocations’ Program A t The International School of Kuala Lumpur (ISKL), in interest that sparks each classroom’s creative spirits. “Allowing the Early Childhood (EC) program (Prep Reception, students to vote themselves promotes self-advocacy, Prep Junior, and Prep Senior), learning is inspired by develops effective communication, and heightens critical curiosity through play and creative skills are reasoning skills,” adds Azra. developed to encourage students to become lifelong learners. ‘A LEARNING CELEBRATION’ The play-based approach uses guided inquiry to nurture a As the academic year came to a close in April, the students’ child’s curiosity whilst providing learning opportunities to efforts were recognized in a Learning Celebration, an exhibition develop in all areas from social-emotional to cognitive to that features each class’s interest projects, self-portraits pre-academic skills. This approach is a powerful pedagogy to created by each student, and two self-selected individual build the foundational skills our youngest learners in EC need pieces of artwork made during the school year. to demonstrate the readiness skills that will ensure success in their transition into ES. “It is a beautiful opportunity to make visible all the student’s wonderings, collaboration, and creativity through various art It is crucial, then, to nurture our student’s creative abilities to forms and media,” commended Azra. “Each of the PR and PJ best express themselves, understand others, and navigate students reflected on what it was about their chosen topic through the early years so that they can be confident and that ignited their passion most. As a class, they then spirited young individuals in an ever-changing world. collaborated their ideas to deep dive into their particular interest topic,” she continued. This process is exemplified through ISKL’s EC program, Provocations, which describes a learning journey where Azra explained that by inviting special guests via Zoom or ISKL students in Prep Junior (PJ) and Prep Reception (PR) explore, specialists into their classes, the students experienced create, and build using different materials that are open- individual and collaborative work where they create ended and hands-on to encourage the students to think and imaginative handmade artwork, self-portraits, and unique wonder and to discover all the possibilities. artistic creations. While Provocations are based on developing the child by In a typical year, parents would be invited to attend the cultivating social, emotional, cognitive, physical, and creative exhibition in person; however, due to the pandemic, the skills, it is also guided by principles of ‘The Melawati Way,’ Learning Celebration’s best moments were captured in a video which encourages students to focus on ‘Taking care of yourself, shared with the parents. Taking care of others, and Taking care of this place.’ “I am always fascinated by how the student’s thinking comes THE JOURNEY together in the work they produce in the exhibition. There’s a Elementary School (ES) Assistant Principal Azra Pathan whole lot of exploration which is inspired when children direct explains that Provocations are set up to provide students with their learning. Even three- and four-year-olds are encouraged intentional experiences to help inspire them to explore, to follow their interests and passions to produce high-quality wonder, talk to each other, and share different ideas. demonstrations of their knowledge,” says Azra. Group Provocations start at the beginning of the academic She also expressed how ISKL’s faculty are there to guide the year with introductory videos created by ISKL’s faculty that students throughout the entire process - from ideation to help provoke the students’ sense of wonder, with the intention creation, and exhibition. “Our faculty are here to support our to immerse them in a learning exploration. student’s learning process through these Provocations and we want our students to know and understand that not only can “When our youngest learners explore the classroom, we they make a difference and positively impact the world but watch them and begin to notice their interests and document also HOW to take action in order to do so”. them. With this information, we provide more Provocations during the second semester which are geared towards their To read more about ISKL’s Early Childhood education head interests,” says Azra. over to iskl.edu.my and watch the Provocations video at ISKL’s YouTube page. Make our ISKL, your ISKL, today! Whole group Provocations and in-class engagements culminate with the young students voting on a particular For more information, visit iskl.edu.my 56 • The Expat expatgo.com

b oo k s by Sarah Anne Lee Murmurs of Myths and Morality W hen was the last time Much like Africa’s Anansi the Spider, you sat down and stories about animals’ cunning and listened to a story? No, cleverness are present, but local stories not that little piece of often champion the mouse deer, Bah gossip that spanned two hours about Pet in Semai circles. A trickster and a your friend’s friend of a friend, but an smart aleck, Pet is here featured as an the GERIMIS team then translated into actual story, complete with intelligent (albeit murderous) creature, English and illustrated with the aid of supernatural happenings and perhaps outsmarting his captors and surviving artist Yiow Shuey Myn’s exciting and even a little moral at the end? being eaten. Many other moral-centric bold inkbrush style. stories are told as a-matter-of-factly, Sadly, this activity of oral storytelling so blunt to emphasise that anything To audiences with little to no has been made a pastime primarily for can and just might happen to anyone! understanding of the Semai and Malay children, with most stories coming A few have no morals nor lessons to languages, we must commend pre-filtered from largely Western impart, but rather a simple telling of a GERIMIS’ conveying of the stories into books, filled with princess magic and man without wits, identified as Engkuk. English, as each word is obviously a endings that cannot be anything other Little footnotes explain these stories to work of care in preserving the essence than happy. Instances of traditional be a part of the Semai’s figurative of these cermor, as well as maintaining oral storytelling here in Malaysia, example in their language; i.e., key phrases and terms of the Semai however, still continue within the “over-praising a relative, just like people in them, with seamless Orang Asli community, keeping tales Engkuk” in the story ‘Engkuk Craves for translations in brackets. somewhat supernatural but chock-full Spinach,’ where he mistakenly of lessons involving the whole family identifies dirty red water in his craving The book is beautifully made, too, its – in-laws and neighbours included! for his sister-in-law’s spinach soup. large pages bound and threaded in the traditional book-binding method – In the Semai tribe, this storytelling Documented by the Persatuan eye-catching from the get-go! session is known as Cermor. This Kebudayaan and Kesenian Orang Asal namesake book compiled and Perak (PKKOAP), this collection of With the success of creating Cermor, published by GERIMIS Art Project, cermor was generously imparted by GERIMIS Art Project hopes to collect helpfully details its history and process Puan Wah Ngah of Kampung Sg. Peria, stories from other tribes as well in on the back cover. Cermor is a form of Sahom, and Encik Ajak Alang of efforts to have Orang Asli literature entertainment of the Semai people, Kampung OA Rasau, Tanjung Malim, available beyond research papers and acting as a method to impart moral Perak. Wendi, who is with GERIMIS Art articles. We hear they have a lead on teachings or taboos. A custom of the Project, shares that its president, an origins myth from a Temiar tribe listener is to respond with a saying Ronnie Bahari, thought it a great idea elder bearing similarities to the (piherk) lest they be subjected to to have his mother’s stories translated Christian Adam and Eve story! Stay ghostly teasing. In actuality, this is to and illustrated into a book and got in tuned. ensure the listener is paying attention, touch with the team. a little elder device to keep the young To purchase Cermor (Second Edition); ones appreciating and remembering Translating the stories from Semai to As told by Puan Wah Ngah & Encik the ceremor for their own children and Malay, the PKKOAP team documented Ajak Alang, visit gerimisart.com/ future generations. these Grimm-style fairy tales, which product/order-cermor. The Expat expatgo.com • 57

p e na n g p ro m en ade by Yukeshwaran Devadas A 24-Hour Guide for Eating Healthy in Penang Y ou may have heard this (or said it to yourself) when visiting good old Penang – “Clean eating starts after my food hunt in Penang!” Well, did you know that you can now enjoy healthier versions of tasty local cuisine? Drop the notion of expecting one- dimensional dishes that are repetitive and bland, too, because these restaurants are setting a new benchmark. From breakfast to dinner, A delightful blend of flavours and colours, check out what’s in store for clean SUPE Sincerely’s mac and cheese curried burger eaters and weight watchers. With a plant-and-egg based menu made bread is good on its own, but that focuses on handmade sourdough even better when combined with bread, Joies Cafe has staked a flag on dishes like the Big Platter, Ragu Tofu the island’s eat-clean map. The freshly Burger, and Barbeque Tempeh Toast. The tranquil atmosphere provides you with the best space to talk, relax with a smoothie, and a indulge in a tofu cheesecake. Less than 10 minutes away is New World Park, where Carrot Fish is situated. With an emphasis on fresh and homemade ingredients, only the A staple of Pinxin is their assam laksa best produce makes it into the kitchen. Choices like Peri Peri Cauliflower Rice and Salmon Quinoa advocate smart seekers happy, while smoothie bowls swaps, Avocado Bruschetta and give that refreshing kick. Tofu cheesecake, Joies Cafe Fisherman’s Benedict keep classic- Vegan sushi platters do the heavy lifting at SUPE Japanese Vegan, a stylish eatery that also has an outlet in KL’s Bukit Ceylon neighbourhood, but equally eyeing the mantle are fried rice and ramen. These wholesome dishes are great on their own, but even better with gut-healing drinks such as lemon kombucha and passion fruit kaffel. Sincerely Crafted Cuisine is so good at ‘vegetizing’ their menu that if you didn’t know they were entirely meatless, the thought wouldn’t even occur when glancing through their interesting and exciting-looking menu. When lunchtime rolls around, pamper your palate with Tandoori Hericium Kick start with a heavy (and healthy) Wrap, Thai Phat Krapow, Power breakfast at Joies Cafe Carrot Fish chicken done the healthier way Pokebowl, or Mac and Cheese Curried 58 • The Expat expatgo.com

Creameal non dairy ice cream A decent spread of baked goodness at LEPAN You’ve probably tried being as hydrated as possible during the mid-day heat, but a life without ice cream seems plain horrendous. How about a healthier alternative? At Creameal, you will find handcrafted ice cream that includes dairy-free choices such as peanut butter chocolate chips, dark chocolate, and black sesame. If you are convinced that all that walking has burned some calories, add in some of their warm waffles, too! Vegan falafel Amid all this overindulging, you Burger. The interior is well-thought out probably want a glass of tea or two, and nicely put together with wooden right before dinner. Make your way to furniture and a minimalist design to the 30-year-old Rangoon Road Herbal create a relaxed and casual ambiance. Tea Van for Chrysanthemum and Chinese Medicated teas. Order like a Many factors come into play when local: Start with the herbal tea and end crafting the perfect truffle burger and with the floral tea. Not only is the fries, satay sticks, and banana pecan bitterness, but you also take in ample bread. This sounds like an invitation to health benefits and an instant boost Real Food 4 tiered cake an upscale bistro, but it’s part of Pinxin for the rest of your food trail. Vegan Cuisine’s menu. Variety is far from short as you’ll also find Asian Once the sun goes down, Chulia Street margherita pizza, and their four-tiered favourites like assam laksa and nasi brims with all the best food you could vegan banana cake is love-at-first- lemak, with a healthy twist of course. It ask for. If you need a filling bite to sight! Within this minimalist space also is also part grocer so once you refuel in accompany your night walk, get a lies LEPAN, a bakery that hits the the cafe, stock up on your favourite falafel wrap or hummus plate from sweet spot of using homegrown yeast ingredients and products to take Vegan Falafel. Taking a cue from and traditional Japanese baking home. authentic Arabic food, you know this methods. Nibble on sesame walnut stall is doing a good job as there is bun, vegan peanut butter braided bun, always a line in front. or tomato basil bread as you stroll the seafront marina. With a name like Real Food Penang, this restaurant in Straits Quay promises Contrary to common belief, eating a memorable dinner. Their popularity clean can be kick-started even if you is in no small part derived from the like to eat out. Many ingredients on reputation of using plant-based their own are already nutrient-packed, recipes and freshly made wild yeast but these eateries take those flavour sourdough for pizzas. Their handmade profiles up a notch while showcasing dumplings go through a six-hour the integrity of the ingredients. Be it labour of love, their vegan soy clever combinations, inspiration, or carbonara sees nutritional yeast in healthier substitutions, once you place of cheese, biodynamic farm- appreciate clean eating, there is no Tea Rangoon Road Herbal picked tomatoes are the star of the turning back. The Expat expatgo.com • 59

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inf o r m a ti o n D i n i n g • S h o p p i n g • S e r v i c e s P64-73 There are hundreds of companies across Malaysia that have specifically selected their products or services with expats in mind. We’ve found some of the very best of these restaurants, bars, shops, and services... putting in the effort so that you don’t have to! Logo Find the b est plac es to eat and Black/Colored Background drink in KL , visit e atdrink.my I ndep endent restaurant rev ie ws The Expat expatgo.com • 65 White Background

Dining RATA Subang’s Always Ready to Roll Out Text and Photos by Sarah Anne Lee Coming across good food on ‘neighbourhood’ vibe. arancini with harissa sauce – tender the internet is arguably one of the best Surveying and speaking to regulars bites of a deep-fried rice ball with a points of social media nowadays. Sure, as well as friends who live in Subang meaty centre – and newly unveiled your cousin’s daughter might have helped Vic and team shape RATA items the classic chicken karaage with had a piano recital or your friend got a to its current incarnation, switching teriyaki mayo, and the pulled beef new puppy, but nothing beats chancing from its upmarket beginnings to a cheese toastie with a side of wedges. upon a fantastic pizza with toppings cosy hangout spot. With three to four RATA’s latest menu follows the you have yet to try! Discovering RATA cycles of menu testing, RATA only took changing of the times, as the crowd Subang was just such an experience, one and a half years to become one wants more drinks and socialising- as a friend happened to post a picture of Subang’s favourite hangouts. The friendly foods over full individual of their delectable (limited) mutton challenges didn’t stop however, and meals. We can confirm, the meal masala pizza. Of course, we had to get the continuous pandemic lockdowns above fed a family of four adults in contact, and here’s our experience. presented obstacles across all of the with leftovers to spare, as each made Founded in 2018, RATA Subang F&B industry, even for the most a hearty, filling portion even when takes its name in honour of Tanah popular. divided up! Rata, Cameron Highlands, where the Moving to a delivery model in the To newcomers and those who have restaurant also receives most of its midst of reinventing, RATA’s team yet to visit this trendy location as weekly vegetable and fruit supply and Chef Vic were quick to realise dine-ins continue to open up across the from. RATA was established on the that rolling with their existing menu Klang Valley, RATA is your place to go premise of emphasising local produce, wouldn’t cut it, and so they came up for chill, picturesque, value-for-money an effort much needed in today’s with more creative, new items that food, desserts, and strong cocktails. economy. are value-for-money, takeaway, and Speaking to Chef Vic, proprietor delivery-friendly, as well as shareable Location & Details and head menu curator of RATA, with the whole family. Not only RATA Subang we asked what establishing a new that, Vic notes having a strong social 25, Jalan SS15/5a, SS15, 47500 Subang restaurant in the already populated media presence helped keep things Jaya, Selangor and identified food haven was like. afloat, attracting customers via digital Tel: 012-424 1194 Website: @rata_subang (Instagram), @ He confesses that it was tough, and marketing in addition to keeping things RATASubangJaya (Facebook), Logo ratarestaurant. that the initial concept of RATA was interesting by having near weekly new beepit.com completely different from what it is specials, box deals, and Covid-period today. Interested in tapping into the themed items as well. Needless to say, upscale dining community of Subang, it worked! Vic thought of kicking off his own We had the absolute pleasure of restaurant of refined plated foods. sampling the Smoked Salmon Mango He soon found out that running a Salsa Pizza (a generous 14-inch pie), Find the b est plac es to eat and Black/Colored Background restaurant of that calibre was more packing a light and refreshing bite of drink in KL , of a struggle than intended, and the mango chunks and salmon beautifully visit e atdrink.my crowd here seemed to want a more paired with cheese; the spicy lamb I ndep endent restaurant rev ie ws 66 • The Expat expatgo.com White Background

chefs and cooking Dining By Chad Merchant New Plant-Based Chicken Comes to Malaysia People may not agree on the co-founder and executive chef at Beta predicted market share, but nearly KL, said, “We were surprised that everyone believes that plant-based chicken made from plants could be proteins as meat substitutes are going to so incredibly flavourful and versatile play a part in the food industry’s future. to use. TiNDLE has exceeded all our More sustainable and environmentally expectations, and we’re excited to responsible, these plant-based products continue innovating non-meat dishes offer good taste and guilt-free eating, for our guests.” appealing to vegetarians and meat- eaters alike. Along those lines, we got to try three special dishes from Chef Raymond A new plant-based chicken product has and his team. We, too, were impressed just arrived here in Malaysia, and we by the taste and texture of TiNDLE in were among the first to try it. Following these totally meat-free dishes! successful launches in Singapore, Hong that plant-based chicken is better for Kong, Macau, and the UAE, Asia’s the planet. In addition, TiNDLE is also At Bref by Darren Chin, Head Chef leading food tech startup Next Gen incredibly tasty and nutritious. The Wei Han Lim has created the TiNDLE Foods began showcasing its flagship meatless meat contains no antibiotics, Wellington, a plant-based version of product — TiNDLE plant-based chicken hormones, cholesterol, or genetically the British classic, with truffle-infused — in a select handful of Kuala Lumpur modified ingredients, yet offers 17g of TiNDLE encased in puff pastry, served restaurants. protein per 100g. with smoked cauliflower purée and spiced honey glazed baby carrots, and Made with only nine simple After its debut in neighbouring it’s finished with a roasted vegetable ingredients, TiNDLE is the first Singapore, Hong Kong, and Macau demi-glace. It definitely sounds like product from Next Gen Foods, a food earlier this year, TiNDLE’s launch in something we would be keen to try! technology startup that aims to make Kuala Lumpur is a testament to its the global food system sustainable and growing popularity in Asia – along Meanwhile, over at Hilton KL, significantly improve public health with its versatility across a variety of Executive Chef Kazi Hassan is another while being environmentally friendly. cuisines in these foodie havens. We plant-based protein convert, and said Requiring 74% less land and 82% less recently tried a few dishes based on he was excited to be among the first water while also producing 88% less the product at an event at Beta KL, in Malaysia to feature TiNDLE on his greenhouse gas emissions compared a favourite place for good food and menu. “TiNDLE is an amazing and to traditional chicken, it’s easy to see cocktails, and enjoyed a delicious extremely adaptable ingredient that introduction to plant-based chicken! we’re using across multiple restaurants at Hilton KL — I love that it is healthy, ​​ “TiNDLE was founded on the belief sustainable and guilt-free.” that doing our part for the planet should be delicious and fun. Our goal is By the time this issue of The Expat is to create a whole new food experience published, TiNDLE will be available — one that delivers on the taste and at nine restaurants in Greater Kuala texture of chicken while being versatile Lumpur, including of course Beta KL and adaptable across applications and and Bref by Darren Chin, along with cuisines that allow chefs to express Huckleberry, Soleil, VCR, Kay’s Steaks their creativity,” said Marc Jolly, & Lobster; and three dining outlets in Growth Director at TiNDLE. Hilton KL: Iketeru, Chyna, and Oro Café. TiNDLE is available – at least for now – exclusively for restaurants and chefs If you’re interested to taste the future to use; it’s not currently a direct-to- of food (and if you’re fully vaccinated, consumer product. But chefs seem to of course), drop by any of these outlets be getting right on board with the idea, and see what creative dishes they’ve and they love the versatility that plant- cooked up using this amazing meatless, based meat substitutes provide. plant-based chicken! To learn more, you Chef Raymond Tham, who is the can also visit tindle.com. The Expat expatgo.com • 67

Dining & drink Food by David Bowden Portuguese Wines: Western Europe’s Final Frontier A glass of Vintage or Tawny Port was once a most agreeable way to round off a formal dinner. Likewise, many diners challenged by a wine list often ordered a squat, green, semi-circular bottle of Rosé and felt they were living well! Both of these examples originate in Portugal, but of the many other table wines from this European country, few make their way onto Malaysian wine lists despite Portugal being the world’s 10th-largest exporter of wine. Moreover, as a wine touring destination, Portugal’s rugged Douro Valley (famous for its Port wine) is considered one of the world’s Winery on the banks of the Mondego River in the Duoro Region of Portugal most dramatically picturesque wine regions. 1974, Adega Cartaxo began investing is the Portuguese word for bridle) Three big full-bodied red table wines in human and technological resources recently captured our attention. are about to change our perception to improve its wine quality. Now with These are produced from three of Portuguese wines. In Malaysia, 216 partners, it controls 616 hectares different Portuguese grape varieties: these wines are mostly for sale in of vines and produces seven million Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, restaurants only, so you will have to litres of wine annually. Red wines are and Touriga Nacional. While these hunt them down but your efforts will the company’s strength, accounting names may present a mouthful to the be justly rewarded – expect to pay for 70% of its output. uninitiated, venture forth into the about RM250 for each. unknown, you won’t be disappointed. Some experts suggest that the wines As an aside, there are thousands of PORTUGUESE WINEGROWING produced are more New World in different wine grape varieties in the HEARTLAND character than Old World. However, world, but most of us only consume Located in Portugal’s agricultural in some other parts of the country, wines made from a mere handful. heartland, Tejo (formerly Ribatejo) traditions die hard, as grapes are still comprises six sub-regions, one of crushed by foot-treading. In recent In addition to these three varieties, which is Cartaxo. Tejo has long been years, Adega Cartaxo has been there are also plantings in the sub- recognised as one of Portugal’s most encouraging its partners to change region of other red grape endemics important wine-producing regions. their viticultural heritage through such as Tinta Roriz and Castelão Situated on the north bank of the Tejo new plantings and replantings to while more recognised varieties River (the longest river on the Iberian introduce new varieties with greater include Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Peninsula), Cartaxo is a colourful wine-making potential. It is slowly Sauvignon. patchwork of mixed rural and urban reinventing itself by encouraging land use. the production, certification, and Bridão Trincadeira appreciation of economically viable This grape variety (pronounced trink- In the late 19th century, the wine styles through a rigorous a-dera) is also known as Tinta Amarela introduction of technological system of grape and plot classification and is one of the principal varieties innovations made Cartaxo the most whereby points are awarded for used to make Port in the Douro region. emblematic wine-growing centre factors related to the soil, climate, and The maturing wine spends several in the Tejo Valley. Many of its aspect. This system matches specific months in French and American wines were shipped to Lisbon to be grape varieties to the terroir (unique oak barrels and then a further nine consumed in the capital or sent to environmental features of each months aging in the bottle before Portuguese colonies like Macau and specific site). being released for sale. possibly Melaka. BIG BOLD BRIDÃO It has a deep garnet colour and Founded in 1954 with just 22 partners, Three Portuguese wines produced intense red fruit flavours. Trincadeira Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo (Adega by Adega Cartaxo under the Bridão is noticeably fruity but also soft Cartaxo) is rooted in a wine-growing label (Tejo is also an area famous and rounded on the palate with a region dating back over 1,000 years. In for equestrian pursuits, and bridão persistent finish and hints of vanilla 68 • The Expat expatgo.com

Shopping and toast. This wine is a perfect match for red meat but is best when slightly chilled to be served at about 15°C. (Malaysian room temperature is normally higher, hence the need for 30 minutes in the fridge.) In addition, opening the bottle an hour before consumption is also recommended to enable the flavours to fully open. All three wines listed would benefit from chilling and opening early. This is a powerful, intense yet elegant, refined wine. Enjoy it with chorizo sausage or roast duck. Producer: Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo Style: Bridão Trincadeira sweet black fruit character. It is one These three, smartly presented and Colheita of several important varieties that appealingly priced labels prove that Seleccionada contribute to producing fine Port Portuguese wines are well worth Region: Tejo wines. This variety benefits from seeking out. Prior to the Bridão range’s Vintage: 2016 a similar barrel and bottle aging as release here, one had to travel to Grape Varieties: 100% Trincadeira the other two wines. It has gentle Macau to enjoy the extensive range Alcohol Content: 15% tannins to give it a soft finish. The of Portuguese wines available in this Closure: Cork wine is dark and inky purple and has former European colony. Sadly, the a rich long finish. It complements the Portuguese village in Melaka has no Bridão Alicante Bouschet flavours of most red meats especially such wine history. Alicante Bouschet grape variety lamb and well-seasoned meat dishes. is a cross between Petit Bouschet Adventurous diners may want to Deciphering Portuguese and Grenache. It too spends several try this wine with classic Portuguese Wine Labels months in French, Portuguese, and dishes such as bacalhau (cod, especially Here are some useful words and American oak barrels to fully develop any that has been salted), peri-peri terms to help you understand and provide vanilla notes to the wine. chicken, and sardines. Portuguese wines. It has a big berry aroma of blackberry, Adega – winery currant, cherry, and also chocolate. Like all these wines, cheeses are a Branca - white The flavour is intensely fruity with perfect accompaniment; however, Colheita – year of vintage sweetish tannins and a persistent getting your hands on Portuguese Colheita Seleccionada – selected finish. These intense flavours make it cheeses like São Jorge, Azeitão, harvest a perfect accompaniment to cold cuts, Nisa, or Pico could be challenging, Denominação de Origen Controlada roasted red meat, or barbecued pork. but those from Spain make a good (DOC) – the highest quality wine substitute. We prefer aged and Doce – sweet Producer: Adega Cooperativa matured cheeses with these, but Espumante - sparkling do Cartaxo experimenting is half the fun of Garrafeira - reserve wine Style: Bridão Alicante matching food with wines. Indicação de Proveniência Bouchet Colheita Regulamentada (IPR) – second-tier Seleccionada Producer: Adega Cooperativa wines Region: Tejo do Cartaxo Quinta – winery or wine estate Vintage: 2017 Style: Bridão Touriga Reserva – superior wine from a Grape Varieties: 100% Alicante Nacional Colheita specific year Bouschet Seleccionada Rosado - Rosé Alcohol Content: 15% Region: Tejo Seco – dry Closure: Cork Vintage: 2017 Tinto – red Grape Varieties: 100% Touriga Vinho –wine Bridão Touriga Nacional Nacional Vinho de Mesa – table wine This low-yielding grape delivers Alcohol Content: 14.5% Vinho Regional – regional wine intense fruit flavours dominated by Closure: Cork The Expat expatgo.com • 69

Dining & drink Food by Chad Merchant Is This KL’s Best Value in Single Malt Scotch Whisky? Deanston’s distillery located on the River Peth Barley, yeast, and water. In the second half of the 20th century, dozen single malts available in the Nothing else. Single malt Scotch however, the rise of single malt began market. Just a year later, that number whisky is just about the most tightly in earnest. Single malts had, of course, approached 50, and as the decade regulated beverage in the world, and existed long before that, but never neared an end, the figure doubled yet it starts and ends with only three got all that much attention. Outside of again, with 104 single malt whiskies ingredients. Despite a staggering Scotland, in fact, the category was all filling retail shelves. These days, we number and variety of single malt but unheard of. One forward-looking routinely see that many different Scotch whiskies in the market, no distillery changed all that, though. single malts come to market in any matter their differences (and they are A young man named Sandy Grant given year. many), each must use only these same Gordon took the malt whisky from the three ingredients. pot stills at the distillery his great- ONE DISTILLERY, THREE grandfather had founded a century INGREDIENTS Scotch whisky has been around earlier and hit the road, travelling far It’s a shockingly short history for for about 250 years (legally, that is; and wide – including to Asia – to share what has become one of the world’s distilleries skirting the law in Scotland this whisky, the purest expression most celebrated spirits – as well as its have existed for much longer), but of the distillery. That founder was costliest. Virtually no other distilled for most of that time, single malts William Grant, and the distillery spirit even approaches what old and really were a bit of an outlier. Nearly was Glenfiddich. And so it was that rare bottles of single malt whisky all whisky made in Scotland was in 1963, Glenfiddich became the first fetch at auction, and even relatively blended; that is, more flavourful malt distillery to actively promote its single pedestrian bottles on the shelves here whisky was blended with less-costly malt outside of Scotland. Their vision in Malaysia carry price tags typically grain whisky, ostensibly resulting in and farsightedness transformed an starting at several hundred ringgit. a more economically viable and more industry. Even as recently as 1980, And it’s not just the high taxes here, consistent product to take to market. there were barely more than two either (though that’s certainly a part of 70 • The Expat expatgo.com

Shopping it); in every market worldwide, single malt Scotch commands a premium price, and the well-aged bottles even more so. What is it about a bottle of nothing more than barley, water, and yeast – with the critical x-factors of wood and time – that drives prices to such dizzying heights? Part of it is the aforementioned regulation. Single malt Scotch whisky is astoundingly well-regulated and protected. There are strict legalities for everything from ingredients to distillation to ageing to even the order in which words on the label are printed. That dedication to such pedantic levels of regulatory protection means that when you buy a bottle that says ‘Single Malt Scotch Whisky,’ you are assured of many things. So when I discovered a proper single some genuinely excellent single malts, It must be made from nothing but malt Scotch with an almost hard-to- and many are admittedly at price malted barley, be produced at one believe price, it had to be sampled. points that quite frankly reflect that single distillery using batch distillation What does ‘proper’ mean, though? To excellence. But when a high-quality in pot stills, then aged in oak for a many whisky purists, it means a bottle distillery like Deanston offers a minimum of three years in Scotland, that lands outside of the mass market whisky expression at an entry level and bottled at no less than 40% alcohol production approach, specifically that price, attention should be paid. After by volume. There are a number of it has a higher-than-legal-minimum all, making good whisky is in their other regulations, as well, but these ABV, no added colouring, and no chill DNA, so it’s not likely to be forgotten are the main points which affect filtration. The absence of any or all of just because they’re producing an consumers. these things doesn’t mean it’s a bad expression that’s more affordable than whisky, of course; but in the mind most. So the inherent quality (malted barley of some aficionados, including me, has a richer flavour profile than other chill filtering removes microscopic Enter the Deanston Virgin Oak single cereal grains), raw material costs compounds that are part of the spirit’s malt. This whisky is bottled at 46.3% (malted barley is more expensive essential character; colouring can be ABV, and like all Deanston whiskies, is than other cereal grains), production used to cover up the use of inferior not chill-filtered and has no colouring costs (batch distillation takes longer wood during ageing, and, since alcohol added. and is less efficient than continuous carries flavour and adds to the spirit’s column distillation), and ageing costs mouthfeel, watering a whisky down THE REVIEW (good casks are very expensive and to the bare minimum strength allowed Visually, this is an attractive bottle. storing whisky for years means a by law is almost scandalous. A classic whisky bottle shape, the distillery cannot get any return on neck mimics the shape of the pot stills its investment for a long time) all Deanston, a relatively young distillery before the sharply angled shoulders of contribute to a final product that can in the Highland region of Scotland the bottle give way to the main body. reach truly eye-watering prices. (established 1966), quietly produces It’s easy to hold, looks good on the The Expat expatgo.com • 71

Shopping Food & drink shelf, and the label is well-designed, boasting no less than six different signatures of the people involved in its making. Frankly, the bottle looks considerably more premium than an inexpensive, entry-level single malt. Let’s pop the cork, shall we? In the glass, the whisky is a light tawny colour, with a very slightly burnished copper tone. The nose exhibits some floral character, underpinned by hints of cereal and honey-roasted nuts. There’s almost a shortbread cookie scent if you linger over the glass. I had enough for three small drams, so it was easy to spend a full minute nosing the whisky. The influence of the virgin oak is certainly there – vanilla, freshly cut wood, a bit of char – but it doesn’t overwhelm the soft, sweet floral notes. I don’t know how Deanston did this, because virgin wood is often untamed and a challenge to work with as the fresh wood can overpower everything else in the spirit, and the nose on this is beautifully balanced. A little research – okay, I read the back of the On the palate, the first sip was that is reflected in the Deanston box – turns up the reason: the whisky fairly assertive, which is common. Virgin Oak’s very attractive price… is only finished in virgin oak, likely It’s the second sip, after that initial downright inexpensive by Kuala for just a few months. It starts out introduction, that needs to be chewed Lumpur’s single malt Scotch price ageing, as many Scotch whiskies do, in on and pondered. Happily, virtually standards! It might just be among ex-Bourbon casks, which explains the all of those lovely, well-balanced the best values in single malt Scotch subtle char on the nose. notes on the nose translate nicely to whisky to be found here. the palate. Shortbread, barley, creamy vanilla, apple and pear, honeysuckle If you’re looking for a single malt blossoms. Suffice it say, the third sip that represents a nice step up from was even better. This Deanston is a the mass market whiskies, looks great Scotch to introduce a novice to appropriately impressive on your bar, the world of whisky, but it will stand and – most importantly – delivers the up to the more demanding palates of goods where it counts, all while being experienced connoisseurs, too. kind to your wallet, Deanston Virgin Oak is an easy bottle to recommend. This is almost certainly a young-ish whisky, likely in the five- to seven- Retail priced at RM247 (70cL), year-old range, but the effort that Deanston Virgin Oak is available in Deanston puts into ensuring the high select retail liquor stores and online calibre of its products as a whole is at singleandavailable.com.my. And communicated quite capably in this whether you’re a true enthusiast entry level-priced offering. Ex- or just starting out on your own Bourbon and virgin oak casks are whisky journey, be sure to mark not nearly as pricey as some of the your calendar for WhiskyPLUS, held more exotic vessels that once held on December 11 at Pavilion Hotel. Premium packaging helps elevate this Sauternes dessert wines in France Check out whiskyplus.my for all the budget whisky or Amontillado Sherry in Spain, and details! 72 • The Expat expatgo.com

Services Cash Is No Longer King. Should You Be Worried about Inflation? Inflation is a term that we’re hearing a lot about at the moment but what is it and how does it affect you? Very simply, inflation is the increase in the price of a basket of goods and services. Globally, central banks have been targeting an inflation rate of 2% for the last decade and according to their figures, they’ve been there, or thereabouts. However, this is now changing. During the pandemic, we’ve seen economies be shut down and supply chains disrupted throughout the world. The knock-on effect of this is that we’re last 10 years or so. Has it increased prices. Stock market investments currently experiencing a surge in prices by just 2% pa, or is it much more than can provide better protection against of many products and services. There is this? Most markets have boomed inflation, providing it doesn’t rise too an energy crisis in Europe, with prices because real assets such as property quickly. 1970s-style inflation tends of gas sky-rocketing due to supply and shares in companies have to be difficult for most asset classes. shortages. There are labour shortages in increased significantly in the last Companies should be able to put up many markets around the world (have decade. They have inflated in price. their prices which, in turn, should be you tried to get a Grab recently) and the passed on to investors in the form of cost of transporting goods globally has Gold is also seen as a hedge against higher dividends or profit growth. increased significantly. inflation. Cash, however, is not. Historically, savings held in a My brother is a roofer and is unable Interest rates globally remain at diversified portfolio of assets have to price work more than a month in historic lows, and cash is certainly kept pace with rising prices over the advance because the cost of timber is not inflating. Many governments long term. If you’ve managed to build significantly rising month on month! believe that the inflation we’re seeing up some spare cash over lockdown, it is ‘transitory’ and will subside in a is worth looking at options to ensure it For the last few months, inflation in couple of months. However, even a doesn’t get eroded by inflation. the US has consistently been above few months of inflation at the current 5%. This means that prices are more rate means the purchasing power of Feel free to get in touch to hear about than 5% higher they were this time your cash is being reduced. your options. last year. The problem with inflation is that the figure depends on what is While cash may feel inherently safe, within your basket and much debate rising prices quickly erode the value has been had around this. Many of a savings pot. Imagine you have people argue that the real inflation £100 in cash today. The below chart figure is actually higher than the shows how the value of this will Jamie is a Chartered figures produced by governments. reduce over time with inflation. Financial Planner and strives to In fact, the Biden administration If current rates of inflation were to raise the standards recently announced that if you were remain in place for just two years, of international to remove beef, pork and poultry your £100 might be worth just £90. financial planning in from the figures when looking at Malaysia and Asia. inflation with regards to food, then Is there a solution? You may direct any “food inflation” is within targets. The inquiries to jamie@ problem is, most Americans eat beef, Other ‘safer’ assets can also struggle infinitysolutions. pork or poultry. during periods of high inflation. com or call +6014.734 6689. It’s generally bad news for bonds LinkedIn: linkedin.com/in/ Think about the price of property and because their income is fixed and jamiebubbsacklyn how this value has changed over the therefore doesn’t keep up with higher The Expat expatgo.com • 73

se e yo u n ex t month by Sarah Anne Lee Seeking the Egg-celent W here do your eggs come CONVENTIONAL SUPERMARKET farmers still view these animals purely from? And no, this isn’t EGGS as income sources, too, instead of a smart chicken-or-egg- The cheapest and most widely another living creature, and may cage first brain teaser! available; supermarket eggs here are their chickens 24/7, also focusing on Tracing the origins of your egg supply almost always brownish in colour, and egg production only. When buying not only gives you confidence in the larger in size. Their shells may feel a these eggs, do not hesitate to ask eggs’ nutritional value, but also assures little weak to the touch, and when about the chicken’s life! ethical production and the support of cracked open, have a pale yellow yolk. local farmers. Some have also noted the whites to FREE-RANGE EGGS have a significantly runnier Here’s where things get a little shady. Sure, it might be most convenient to consistency. This combination makes While the free-range label ensures pick up a carton at the grocery store, for a very light flavour profile. checking off the boxes guaranteeing but then again, seeking out the eggs are not harvested and procured Omega-3-rich labels, pasteurised, and Hens laying eggs for the supermarket like standard eggs, little loopholes in other markings will still affect your variety are raised en masse in cage the free-range regulation can be (and purchase. Some might advise you to barns, barely seeing any sunshine and are) exploited by some farmers in the get kampung or free-range eggs, citing subject to overcrowded conditions. pursuit of higher yields. better value and flavour. Their sole purpose is to produce eggs, up to the point of being fed chemically Most notably, farmers will engage in So, how do we tell these eggs apart? treated grain filled with antibiotics, beak-trimming to reduce hens genetically-modified food (GM), and injuring themselves and flockmates hormones to speed up egg production. from feather-pecking. This however, Animal activists have long protested also damages the hen’s ability to such measures to obtain eggs, but naturally forage and groom, and can regulations are slow to enforce better also be painful and stress the bird out. living conditions for the poultry. In addition, antibiotic use is unregulated and is at the discretion of KAMPUNG EGGS (ORGANIC) the respective farmer. GM-treated Hailed to be the best of free-range food is also unregulated, and just eggs (although the free-range label because the hen gets a few more isn’t as accurate as you might believe), hours in the sun and a little place to kampung eggs are available outside roam, it doesn’t mean it’s being the confines of supermarket brands. treated fairly for its kind. Visit wet markets and you’ll find these small, solid eggs sold by the trayful Taste and appearance-wise, these eggs from local farmers and suppliers. are generally not that much different Crack these open and find a richer, from a kampung egg – it’s all just a light orange yolk and a viscous white, matter of ethics and choice of natural, which many say has a more robust organic nutritional value. flavour. As eggs make up a significant part of These are the signs of a true ‘happy many people’s diets, sourcing and healthy’ hen, being free to roam in wholesome, ethical, and nutritious open, grassy areas from a young age eggs can be done without jeopardising and receiving all-natural organic feed. the producer of the egg itself. Organic As kampung farmers can be more and free-range eggs may be a bit more holistic in the way they raise their expensive, but more support is needed chickens, having poultry produce to level out the market, encourage saturated with antibiotics, hormones, more humane production and and other growth boosters are slim. treatment, and ensure safe However, do be aware that some consumption for all. Photo credits: Page 10 Shutterstock


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4 Replies to “Output Exhale Awesome 1.1 Crack For Mac & Serial Number [100% Working] 2021”

  1. On a similar note with mobiles, I've had a Huawei update in the middle of the night, restart, then wait on the lock screen so that no calls could come in, and I was waiting on an important call in the morning.

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